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Washer Instruction Manual and Parts List

Published by Cook Machinery in 1974-- Here is the complete manual given to new owners of the commercial Washette automatic washer. Sections include: Installation, Repair and Maintenance, complete instructions on operating machine, setting the automatic supply injector, changing the timer sequences to make a cycle run however you prefer, control panel, etc. etc.

Number of Pages: 44
File Size: 19mb
Download Fee: $12.99

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Washer Instruction Manual and Parts List
Published in 1974

Important: Please note the summary text below was created by electronically reading the scanned images with optical character recognition software (ocr). OCR technolgoy is not yet perfected and you might see some spelling and formatting errors in the preview text below. These errors are not actually in the final product, the download file you will receive is a pure clean high-resolution scan of the original document, containing all text, graphics and photos exactly as originally printed.
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Your Cook Washette is a quality piece of laundry equipment designed to give years of trouble free service. To assure this trouble free service, it is necessary that the machine be installed correctly and that it receives normal attention and preventive maintenance.

We recommend the following:


1. Install your Washette according to instructions. See installation instructions on pages 3 and 4.

2. Give special attention to the electrical connections.

3. Operate your Washette according to instructions. Do not overload or abuse the machine. See instructions on pages 4 and 5.


Every_6_ months make the following maintenance checks and adjustments as needed:

A. Drain oil from the speed reducer and re-fill with a good grade of SAE-50 motor oil. Oil must be level with the port in the side of the reducer. CAUTION Too much oil will cause overheating and seal failure. Too little oil will cause premature failure of bearings and/or gears.

B. Check Belt tension. Adjust if needed. Keep belts clean. Oil, dirt and water will shorten belt life. Check alignment of pulleys, tighten pulley set screws.

C. Check drain valve for free action. Remove valve top and clean around valve seat and rubber washer.

D. Check fill valves. Remove and clean if needed. In some locations filters may be needed in the water lines to keep the valve free of rust, lime, etc.

E. Check drive motor. Keep motor clean and dry. Motor winding must be protected from water and spray. Clean air vents in each end bell. Blow dirt and lint out of end bells and winding. Check and lubricate as needed.

F. Door Gaskets - The life of the door gasket will depend upon' local conditions. Some washing supplies and bleaches will attack the rubber gasket. Extremely high water temperature will also shorten gasket life. We recommend the use of two gaskets, alternating from one to the other every week or ten days.

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All washers are carefully inspected and tested before being shipped from factory. When uncrated, they should be checked carefully for damage that may have occurred during shipment. If any damage is noted, the transportation company must be notified immediately in order that they may make an inspection and record the damage. A claim should be filed at once with the transportation company to recover the expense of repairing the washer. The Distributor or the Manufacturer cannot accept this responsibility.


When locating the washer, be sure to allow 16 to 18 inches at the rear of the washer to permit periodic maintenance, inspection and adjustment. When installed properly, all maintenance and repair can be accomplished without any need for disconnecting the electric or hot water service.

For maximum output at a minimum operating and maintenance expense, the washer should be installed as follows:


The electrical characteristics of each washer are stamped on the specification plate, on the motor, and on a label placed on the control box panel. The washer is completely wired internally-the only connection to be made is to the junction box on the rear of the control panel.

A separate circuit adequately fused should be brought from the fuse panel to each washer. Two or more washers on the same circuit is not recommended. Electric service from the service panel to the washer must be in accordance with local codes. Local electricians are very familiar with such codes and should be consulted when in doubt. Be sure the service supplied matches the electrical specifications on the name plate, otherwise extensive damage will be done to motor and controls.


Hot and cold water must be supplied to each washer. The 25 and 50 lb. fully automatic models are furnished with 18" flexible hose to be connected between the water lines and the electric valves. The 25 lb. and the 50 lb. models have " fittings. All other models should be connected directly to the supply line.

Water pressure should be no less than 20 lb. per square inch nor greater than 100 lb. per square inch. The size of the hot and cold water line to each washer should be no less than that indicated in the chart below. When two or more washers are connected to the same main supply line, the main supply must be proportionately sized to furnish water to all washers at one time.

An air cushion should be installed in all lines to eliminate "knock" or "hammer" that results when valves close rapidly. A typical installation is shown below.
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All plumbing should comply to local regulations and codes. If in doubt, consult your local plumber or inspector. Sizes recommended are for normal installation. Where lines are run for great distances, a larger line should be used.


Due to the wide variations in local codes it is impossible to recommend any overall method to be used in disposing of drain water. In some areas, open drains are permissible, in others the drain line must be connected to a 4" waste line and vented. Local requirements should be met. In no case should the drain size be reduced. On 25 and 50 lb. washers, it should be 2" or larger, and on 75 and 100 lb. washers, it should be 3" or larger.

OPERATION Automatic Models

Load the wash wheel with the desired load. The flexibility of the automatic controls enables a small load to be washed as easily as a full load without wasting supplies or water. When the desired load has been placed in the washer, close the loading door and proceed to set the controls on the control panel as follows:

Quick Change Formula Dial

The Quick Change Dial for normal loads should be set at "BREAK" "ON" positions. Any portion of the formula may be omitted or repeated according to the need of the particular load. If the "BREAK" or any other portion of the formula is to be omitted, set dial to "ON" position of the portion of the formula to be used.

Warm Water Only Switch

If hot water is to be used during the WASH CYCLE, have warm water switch in "OFF" position. If woolens, etc. are being washed and warm water is to be used, snap switch to "ON" position and only warm water will be used during wash cycle. The following schedule indicates temperature of the water entering washer during the complete cycle:

Water Level Selector

The water level selector dial may be set for low, medium, or high, depending on the size of the load being washed. For a small load set on "LOW"; for a medium load set on "MEDIUM"; for a full load set on "HIGH". This feature enables the washer to be filled automatically with the correct amount of water for the size load being washed - a saving of time, supplies and water.

Motor Switch

This switch starts motor - just snap to the "ON" position to start.
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Master Switch

This switch turns on electric current to entire washer. When in the "ON" position electricity is supplied to all controls according to setting of dials and switches. The cycle can be interrupted at any point by snapping this switch to "OFF" position.

Automatic Timer Control

This switch controls the motor that turns the formula dial through the entire cycle. When in the "AUTO" position, the Formula Dial advances through the various phases of the cycle automatically. When in the "MANUAL" position the dial stops turning and the washer will continue to wash as indicated on the dial until the switch is snapped to the "AUTO" position or until the "Formula Dial" is turned manually.

Additional Water

The additional water switch enables the operator to add water if the particular load requires more than that allowed by the water level selector. When the button is pressed, water will enter cylinder at same temperature as water already in washer during that particular cycle.

Cycle of Operation

When controls have been properly set and Formula Dial is in "ON" position, the washer will start. The green pilot light will come on, water will enter washer, and formula dial will rotate automatically (clockwise). Washing supplies may be added as required through supply chute atop the wash drum.

The "Formula Dial" will rotate clockwise for the time shovvn on the dial face. Each mark represents one minute. When the dial advances to any "OFF" position, the dump valve will open and drain the washer. The green light will go off and the red light will come on, indicating the washer is ready for the next cycle. The timer motor stops and 'Formula Dial" must be turned manually to next cycle. When advanced to next cycle, the red light goes out, the dump valve closes, the green light lights and water enters the washer.

Supplies may then be added for this portion of the formula.

When the "Formula Dial" advances to the rinse periods, the green light remains on, the dump valve opens and drains the wash water. The "Formula Dial" continues on to the rinse period and water enters to the height indicated by the water level control. This repeats during the first two rinse cycles. If the operator wishes three rinses, the dial must be turned manually to third rinse.

At the end of the last rinse, the green light goes off, the dump valve opens, and the red light indicates the wash cycle is ended.

(Note: If the machine is equipped with a buzzer, the buzzer sounds whenever the red light is on).


If clothes are to be starched, the "Formula Dial" may be turned to the starch position. The dump valve will close; however, the timer will not advance and neither light will show.

To fill with water, it is necessary to snap the warm water switch to "ON"-COLD water will enter until the switch is again placed in "OFF" position when the right amount of water has entered the washer for the starch operation. The timer will not advance in starch position. When starch time is complete, the "Formula Dial" must be turned clockwise until green light comes on. The dump valve then opens and timer advances "Formula Dial" to off. Be sure warm water switch is in "OFF" position; otherwise water will again enter into machine.

Upon completion of wash cycle, clothes may be removed from washer to extraction and drying.

The "Quick Change Formula" automatic control system offers unlimited flexibility in
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washing all types of laundry. Any portion of the formula can be omitted or repeated as required. The washer will operate in any one portion of the formula cycle for an indefinite time at the operator's discretion. Water can be admitted automatically and/or manually to any desired height.

There are over 20 formula dials available for handling all types of laundry. Changing from one dial to another can be accomplished in seconds, by removing the "knurled" nut in the center of the dial, pulling the dial off and replacing with the desired dial. Your distributor or the factory has a list of all available dials. Special formulas may be obtained upon special order, in the event none of available formulas meet the immediate requirement. Prices for special formulas are available on request from your distributor or the factory.


The dump valve on automatic models may be controlled manually by use of the small black button just below the washer drum on right hand side. In the event of a power failure, wash water may be dumped by pulling this knob until water drains from washer.

In the event too much water may have entered the washer during the fill period, it may be lowered by pulling button until desired lower level is reached.


Semi Automatics are equipped with a 15 minute timer and electric dump valve. Inlet valves are to be supplied by installer, or may be purchased as additional equipment.

When clothes have been loaded, the hot and/ or cold valves are opened and water enters washer as indicated on temperature gauge. The timer dial must be turned to the desired amount of time the load is to be washed to close the dump valve. Operator adjusts hot and cold valves manually to get water the correct temperature. Timer is to be turned counter clockwise only. When timer pointer

reaches the "OFF" position, the dump valve opens. Operator must then reset timer and add water and supplies as desired.


Manual models have a hand operated dump valve. Operator must fill with water and dump water manually as desired with water valves supplied by installer, or valves that may be purchased as optional equipment.
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All motors are manufactured to rigid specifications and will give long trouble free service. Motor bearings are supplied oil from a large reservoir on the motor bell ends. Periodically the oil should be replenished with a good quality light automobile oil - do not overoil. Be sure to replace screw or close cover. It is better to oil frequently with a little oil than to oil heavily and allow oil to enter motor to deteriorate windings.

Lint and dust should also be blown from the air vent openings in the motor end bells to permit air to circulate and cool the motor properly.

In the event of motor failure, the motor should be sent directly to the authorized repair station indicated on the listing inside the back cover. Authorized repair stations will handle warranty repairs in accordance with the terms of the warranty.


The Dodge Gear Reducer requires very little attention. Once every six months the oil should be drained from the gear case and a new supply added. Gear case should be filled to oil level plug on the side of the gear case. A good grade of SAE #50 oil should be used. Periodically check the oil to bring to the oil level plug opening if necessary. To change any parts, refer to the instructions on the parts list in the parts section.


The Automatic Dump Valve is a solenoid operated normally closed valve that will require very little attention. When the solenoid is energized the armature lifts the rubber valve seat and allows water to drain from the washer. When the electricity is turned off, the spring forces the rubber valve seat downward, closing the opening.

If any foreign matter-pencil, pins, coins etc. lodge on the valve seat, water will leak during the wash cycle. This may be removed by operating the manual control several times. If this fails, the inspection pipe plug should be removed and the object removed from the valve seat.

Replacement of the valve seat and diaphragm can be accomplished by removing the valve cover, the three screws around the top valve casting, and lifting top casting with diaphragm and seat from lower casting. Remove center brass screw, which allows the


removal of the valve seat, the diaphragm and the spring, as may be necessary.

If the solenoid is to be replaced; it can be done by removing pin in armature, and four screws that hold coil to bracket. Replace coil and yoke pin and then slide coil upward until spring is about to raise valve seat plunger. Tighten four bolts holding coil to bracket. Do not raise coil too far or valve cannot close. When adjusted properly, the shock absorbing connecting spring will have no tension on it and feel loose to touch when in the normally closed position.

If the solenoid should hum loudly, it is an indication that some adjustment is incorrect and a check should be made immediately to determine the cause. If allowed to operate when hum is unusually loud, the coil will burn out.
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The water level control (located in the control box) accurately controls the water level in the washer drum. This is a diaphragm switch that operates from air pressure which is built up when water tries to enter the air chamber at the rear and bottom of the washer drum. The higher the water level, the greater the pressure. When the pressure is great enough, the switch opens and shuts off the water.

This switch requires little, if any, attention. If the water fails to shut off or will not enter when it should, it may be due to an accumulation of soap and/or sediment in the opening to the air chamber. To clean, remove the thermometer bulb from the air chamber and remove soap and/or sediment from the opening in the rear of the tub fittings.

The water level can be raised or lowered by turning the adjusting screw in the center of the control. This adjustment is made at the factory but additional adjustment can be made if it does not fit the particular need. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise will raise water level. The adjustment is very critical as 1/16 of a turn will raise or lower the water level approximately one inch.

Be sure to turn ELECTRICITY OFF when adjusting as screw head is LIVE with electric currrent when electricity is on to washer.

Water level control can be readily replaced by removing knob and screw on either side of shaft on control panel. Remove wire clips from terminals (note color to each terminal) and plastic hose. When replacing be sure to use plastic cement to insure air tight connection between hose and pressure switch. Be careful that cement does not close small opening in end of pressure switch stem.


The motor reversing mechanism consists of a

series of micro switches actuated by cams which in turn are powered by a synchron motor. The switches and motor will give hundreds of hours of operation without any attention. This mechanism does not require oil.

Clock motor can be replaced, if necessary, by removing two screws and disconnecting motor wire. Put new motor in place, tighten screws and attach wires to connections.

Micro switches can be replaced by removing hex nut from ends of tie rods, removing wire from terminal, and replacing. When replacing more than one switch, they should be replaced one at a time, which will make it impossible to wire the mechanisms incorrectly.

The reversing mechanism is not adjustable. It will reverse the motor approximately four times per minute. The number of cams and switches vary between single and three phase units. The one shown is for single phase 220 volt operation.


The heart of the automatic models is the Quick Change Timer. This simple mechanism controls the entire cycle of operation - yet it is very simple to operate and maintain.
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If it is necessary to repair or adjust this mechanism, it can be done easily by removing knurled nut in ce.nter of dial and pulling dial forward. The two screws that hold it to panel can then be removed which allows the mechanism to be taken from the cabinet by sirrply lifting wires and plug from plug-in receptacle.

You will note timer consists of five (5) Micro switches and a clock motor. The clock motor is easily replaced by removing two screws and loosening wires from terminals.

The Micro switches are identical and easily replaced. They are operated by the ridges on the back of the timer dial. Each switch controls a different part of the washer, as indicated above.

It is a simple matter to check and replace any inoperative switch. Change only one switch at a time to avoid any error in re-wiring mechanism.


Asco Company valves are used on 25 and 50 lb. automatic washers. They represent the latest in automatic valve design and are easily maintained.

The solenoid coil can be replaced by removing cover and the clip that holds the coil in place. The coil can then be lifted off. The coil wires can be loosened from terminals and new coils installed. The solenoid coil is the same size on the 25 and 50 lb. models.

If the valve leaks for any reason, it can be cleaned or parts replaced by removing the four cap screws, one in each corner of the valve cover, and lifting the neoprene seat from the bottom half of the valve. The seat can then be cleaned or replaced as may be necessary. New diaphragm seats are marked "this side up" to avoid any error in installation.


On 75 and 100 lb. machines, Hays valves are standard equipment. Coils are replaced the same as ASCO. (See above).

To diassemble the Hayes valve, a large wrench should be used to loosen nut just below the solenoid coil. This will permit the top to be removed. The plunger, spring and seat can then be cleaned or replaced, as necessary.
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When replacing the seal, take off the belt guard and the drive belt. The pulley on the Dodge gear reducer should also be removed. The Dodge gear reducer can then be removed by removing the four stud bolts in each corner of the reducer and the hex cap screw in the back of the drive shaft.

The Dodge gear reducer can then be pulled from the basket shaft exposing the seal. The seal can be loosened by rotating right and left, and pulling from shaft.


When seal body is removed, the seal nose should be removed from brass fitting in tub back. This nose ring and the seal rubber gasket can be pried from the brass fitting in the tube back.

The new seal is complete with a gasket, nose ring and seal flange. The nose gasket and brass seal nose should be lubricated lightly with glycerine or soap to slip easily into place. The carbon face and shaft seal can then be slipped over shaft into place. The shaft should be coated lightly with oil to allow seal to slip easily into place. Be very careful that the brass seal ring insert and carbon seal nose are not scratched during installation.

If either surface is damaged, the new seal will leak.

Reinstall Dodge gear reducer - being sure to grease shaft lightly to avoid forcing unit onto basket shaft.


The temperature gauge is a self contained unit that is not serviceable in the field. If it fails, it is necessary to replace the entire unit. To replace, loosen hex nut that holds capillary tube bulb into fitting on back of washer. This will allow the papillary tube and bulb to be pulled from the front of the control box when the three screws have been removed from around the temperature gauge dial.


If it is necessary to remove the basket or spider and shaft assembly, it can be accomplished by following the steps outlined under seal replacement. In addition, it is necessary to remove the front panel and door assembly from the washer drum. Loosen clamp screw that tightens drawband around drum front. Be careful when removing draw band and front that gasket is not damaged. Entire front, including door and glass, can be easily removed and set aside to avoid damage.

With front removed, the basket, spider and shaft can be easily removed from the front. When replacing, be sure to use new seal assembly.


The circular crystal glass in the door assembly is heat treated glass, and is used to permit the operator to view the washing action and add supplies, water, etc. as may be necessary.

The glass can be replaced if broken, by removing all of the Acorn nuts from around the aluminum retaining ring. The split retaining ring can then be lifted out. The glass and rubber glass gasket can then be replaced as necessary.
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Be sure to use new glass gasket when replacing glass. Gasket should be joined at the top to avoid any leak. A small amount of permatex should be used under the head of each stainless steel bolt when re-assembled. Acorn nuts should be tightened evenly just tight enough to eliminate leaks. Do not tighten too tight - it will place uneven stress on the glass, causing it to break.

The washer has been so engineered that a very few parts are actually expendable; however, we do recommend the following extra parts be carried to avoid any delay in your production schedule. Refer to the parts list for the correct number of the parts for your model:








The door gasket is of a specially compounded neoprene. It should be rotated occasionally around the door frame - especially when leaks occur after some use. The gasket will have to be replaced periodically.


When placing orders for repair parts, be sure to refer to the parts lists that follow, and order by part number. Be sure to give serial number of machine to insure prompt shipment of the parts being ordered. The parts order should be forwarded to the distributor through which the equipment was purchased, or to the address shown on the inside of the back cover.

The parts used in the manufacture of these washers are the finest available. They have been thoroughly tested before being used, any of the controls or assemblies, and will give long trouble-free service.

As with any mechanical or electrical device, the parts are subject to wear and eventual replacement.
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Effective with washer serial #66B11510, there has been a change in the design of the loading door and gasket. A stainless steel band is now used to hold the gasket firmly to the door frame. This will eliminate the possibility of the gasket stretching and coming off the door rim. The following is a list of the complete door assemblies and component parts:

The door assembly shown above will fit earlier production 50-75-100 lb. washers as a replacement part; however, on some machines (due mostly to variation in the relative spacing of the hinge and latch holes on the front panel) , it will be necessary to bend the connecting arm #102-9007 to obtain a slightly shorter distance between holes so that the lower arm lever swings clear of the draw band when the handle lever is in the raised (open) position.

It may be necessary to install one or more hinge base gaskets (#115-8405) between the hinge base and the drum front to obtain adjustment at the hinge side of the door. It may also be necessary to install one or more latch base plate gaskets (#115-8406) for same reason at latch side of machine.
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Effective with serial #69B12456, there has been a change in the design of the loading door latch and hinge assembly. The original tandem latch has been replaced with a single control latch mechanism. This new latch assembly makes it possible to obtain a more even door gasket pressure around the entire circumference of the door.

The "T" handle on the latch assembly is connected to a shaft and cam arrangement. Turning the handle causes both the upper and the lower slide bars to engage the latch body rollers at the same time. The latch body is designed so that the roller block can be adjusted in or out as needed to obtain correct gasket pressure. To make this adjustment it is necessary to loosen the lock bolt, #104-8080, and adjust the roller block screw #104-8079 in or out. This adjustment screw is located inside the latch body. It can be adjusted by inserting a screwdriver blade into a notch in the screw head and working the screw in or out as needed.

The door hinge is also adjustable at both the upper and the lower hinge post. The hinge pin fits into the hinge bearing which is spring loaded. The adjustment screws, #998-4303, are located in the front of each hinge post. By adjusting these screws in or out the pressure on the door gasket can be changed as needed. The door gasket pressure should be just enough to eliminate any water leak around the door. Excessive pressure on the door gasket will tend to shorten its life. The door latch assembly is also available with an electric interlock system. This interlock uses a solenoid which causes a lock lever to engage in a notch in the upper slide. On washers equipped with the "Cycle Selector" control system, the door interlock will be released at the end of the wash cycle. On Washers equipped with the "Quick Change Dial" control or with "Manual" controls, the interlock will release when the master switch on the control panel is turned off. When the current to the interlock solenoid is cut off, it releases the slide bar lock lever allowing the door to be opened. The door must be closed and latched before the solenoid can be energized. All electrical current to the interlock system is 24 Volts. This is supplied by a 24 Volt step-down transformer located in the main control box. The interlock is a system which is built into the washer at the factory. It is not available as an add-on kit for washers in the field.
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The automatic electric Supply Injector is designed to operate on washers equipped with either the "Quick Change" cycle timer or the automatic "Cycle Selector". The Supply Injector is built into the washer at the time of manufacture and is not an accessory which can be added to a washer in the field. The Supply Injector is equipped with four ingredient, or supply, cups which will dump in sequence upon proper signal from the cycle timer.

The Supply Injector will feed supplies to any four segments, selected by the user, of the complete formula cycle. It will feed supplies when the selected water level has been reached, and therefore cannot feed or inject supplies into the machine without moisture and dilution as the supplies enter the wash cylinder behind the solid back on the wash basket.

To operate the Supply Injector on washers equipped with the "Quick Change" cycle timer, the following instructions apply:

To set up dial for feeding supplies, insert supply injector operating screw in any one to four holes on the back of the dial on the Quick Change Formula Dial (See Figure 1). If order for machine listed a formula, it will be set up upon arrival. If none was shown on the order, a Standard Formula, No. 1 Dial, will be set up when the machine is shipped from the factory.

To check operation, set formula dial on segment of cycle calling for supplies.

Be sure Supply Injector On-Off switch is in the ON position.

Open the water inlet valve to the supply injector.

The inlet water valve (See Figure 2) can be completely open in most cases. Only where water pressure is extreme will it be necessary to throttle the valve.


Start the washer by turning on the master switch. The water fill valve will open and start to fill the machine. When the water level has reached the selected level, current will be fed to the cycle timer. The cycle timer motor will start and will close a switch sending a signal to the Supply Injector. When the signal is delivered from the cycle timer, the drive motor of the Supply Injector will advance until the first cup is in the up or dump position. At this point, the V-3 switch has dropped into a notch in the cam, stopping the

To change supply feeder to feed supplies to other portions of the formula, remove actuator screw and re-install into tapped hole corresponding to start of cycle. For example, if you want supplies in this portion, place actuator screw in hole "A", Use any four of the segments for adding supplies.
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It will also at the same time open the solenoid valve causing the water to flow down both sides of the Supply Injector trough and will flush the supplies into the washer tub. When the signal from the cycle timer ends, the flush water shuts off, the relay relaxes and causes the supply injector motor to drive the cup shaft until the cup drops back into its down position. The V-3 switch actuator is then on the high point of the cam, therefore shutting off the drive motor until the next signal from the cycle timer. When the next signal is delivered from the cycle timer, the above operation will be repeated.

On the front of the supply injector is a switch and a pilot light. The pilot light is "off" if the supply injector is in start position (ready to raise the first cup). As soon as the first cup has been raised, the light will be "on" and will stay on until the last cup has been raised and returned to the down position.

If an operator has used only three cups, the red light will be "on", warning him to advance the supply injector (before placing supplies in the cups) using the push button until the light goes out.

The unit can be advanced from one cup to the next at any time by pressing the button on the front until the cup raises. Water for flushing will always flow when the button is pressed to raise the trough.

Washers with


Control System

The operation of the Supply Injector on washers equipped with the "Cycle Selector" control is basically the same as on washers with the "Quick Change" cycle timer.

The exception is the setting of the formula switches to feed supplies at the desired time. This is done by setting the switches marked "Supplies" or "Buzz" in the correct position. When supplies are desired, the switch should be in the up position. When the switch is in the down position, the buzzer will signal the operator. With the switch set in the center position, both the Supply Injector and the buzzer are disconnected for that portion of the wash cycle.


The raising of the cups is controlled by the signal from the switch in the cycle control. If you refer to the cams on the motor drive, you will note there are two V-3 switches, one riding on a four notch cam and the other on a single notch cam. The operation is as follows:

1. Four notch cam and switch

This cam is the master control of the cups. When the unit is in the start position, the switch actuator roller is on the high point of the cam making connection from common to N. O.

The current from the cycle timer is delivered to the supply injector via the PK wire and when this happens, the motor runs through the V-3 switch and the relay is energized breaking the relay circuit to the motor. The supply injector dumps the cup and when it is at the high position, the switch actuator drops into the notch shutting off the current to the motor. Since the signal from the cycle timer is one minute long, the flush water continues to run until this time has elapsed. When the signal is ended, no power remains in the relay coil so it relaxes and the points close making a circuit from R/BK through the relay contacts to the N. C. terminal of the V-3 switch and since the actuator is in the notch, current is delivered to the common terminal and out to the motor. The motor runs until the switch actuator rises on the cam and shuts off the motor ready for the next signal from the cycle timer.

The indicator light is on a switch controlled by the single notch cam and any time that the cams and cups are not in a "ready to start" position, this light will be "on". To bring the unit back to a ready to start position, it is only necessary to press the switch below the light and hold it until the light goes out. If all four cups are used for one cycle, there will be no need to use the switch since the cups will automatically stop in the "ready to start" position; however, if only two or three cups are used, it will be necessary to reset the cams by pressing the button until the light goes out.

Proper adjustment of the cup is such that they will rise to their maximum height, stay there while the flush water is on, then drop back into the down position when the current goes off from the cycle timer.


When Ordering Parts - Give Part Number, Washer Model and Serial Number, Voltage, Phase, and Cycle.
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Push Button Switch.............................994-1115

Indicator Light - 115V.........................994-4317

Indicator Light - 230V ....................... 994-4318

Light & Switch Housing 106-8075

Switch Housing Cover 106-8074

Drive Motor-115V ..............................106-8059

Drive Motor-230V ..............................106-8060

Motor Relay-115V ..............................994-2014

Motor Relay - 230V ............................994-2015

Motor Bracket - R.H............................106-8064

Motor Bracket -L.H.............................106-9037

Motor Cover Assy...............................106-8055

Drive Cam (4 Notches)..........................106-8063

Drive Cam (1 Notch)......................... 106-8061

Micro Switch - V-3 ............................994-1202

Switch Insulator ............................. 106-8051

Switch Bracket 106-8062


Micro Switch Actuator - JV-58...................323-8003

Solenoid Water Valve-115V 100-9063

Solenoid Water Valve - 230V 100-9064

Manual Water Valve..............................106-9036

Cam Shaft ......................................106-9022

Shaft Bracket ..................................106-8072

Shaft Collar ...................................106-8073

Cup'Cam 106-8070

Ingredient Cup .................................106-8071

Cup Bracket 106-8069

Cup Screw ......................................998-3009

Bracket Sleeve .................................106-9021

Bracket Roller 106-9056

Roller Shaft 106-9057

Cup Hanger Shaft................................106-9019

Shaft Screw ....................................998-3180

Cup Support, Rod 106-9020
Page 27:


Illustrated on these pages are the washing formulae available for Washette by Cook. Dials #3, #4, #5 and #14 are dual purpose with two formulae on each. Ability to omit, repeat, extend, shorten any portion of the formula, coupled with 3 water level selections, permits each load to be washed according to the type of materials, amount of soil.

Flexibility of formula dial and controls saves power, water and supplies, for special applications, dial can be prepared for any formula desired. Consult price list for standard dial prices; write factory for prices of special dials not listed.

Changing Cook's Famous One-Dial Controls takes about 15 seconds; just remove one dial, replace with another and start the machine. It's just as simple as winding a watch or putting a key in a lock! Dial cannot be put on wrong, can be turned either backward or forward, and washer started from any point in the cycle. No charts to cut, no springs or electrical connections to change.

STARCH PERIOD SHOWN IS NOT A TIMED PERIOD For machines equipped with "Stop at end of cycle," designate on order for dial needed.

When ordering dials to be used with AUTOMATIC SUPPLY INJECTOR, add the letter "A" to dial number
Page 32:

Page 33:

Repair Parts Manual for Dodge Flange Mounted Speed Reducers

Sizes FD115 to FD325


Page 34:

NOTE: The three digit numbers identify parts without relation to size of reducer. Order parts by the six digit numbers in the Price List. Each six digit number is a complete key to the part (except as explained in the notes at the bottom of table) or assembly and to the size of the reducer.
Page 36:

Replacement of Parts


Using tools normally found in a maintenance department, a Dodge Torgue-Arm Speed Reducer can be disassembled and reassembled by careful attention to the instructions given below.

Cleanliness is very important to prevent the introduction of dirt into the bearings and other parts of the reducer. A tank of clean solvent, an arbor press, and eguipment for heating bearings and gears, should be available for shrinking these parts on shafts.

Our factory is prepared to repair reducers for customers who do not have proper facilities or who for any reason desire factory service.

The oil seals are of the rubbing type and considerable care should be used during disassembly and reassembly to avoid damage to the surface which the seals rub upon.

The keyseat in the input shaft as well as the six holes in the output hub should be covered with scotch tape or paper before disassembly or reassembly. Also be careful to remove any burrs or nicks on surfaces of input shaft and output hub before disassembly or reassembly.


When ordering parts for reducer specify Reducer Size No., Reducer Serial No., part name, part number, and guantity.

It is strongly recommended that when a pinion or gear is replaced, the mating gear or pinion should be replaced also.

If the large gear on the output hub must be replaced it is recommended that an output hub assembly of a gear assembled on a hub be ordered to secure undamaged surfaces on the output hub where the oil seals rub. However, if it is desired to use the old output hub, press the gear and bearing off and examine the rubbing surface under the oil seal carefully for possible scratching or other damage resulting from the pressing operation. To prevent oil leakage at the shaft oil seals the smooth surface of the output hub must not be damaged.

If any parts must be pressed from a shaft or from the output hub, this should be done before ordering parts to make sure that none of the bearings or other parts are damaged in removal. Do not press against outer race of any bearing.

Because old shaft oil seals and housing gasket may be damaged in disassembly it is advisable to order replacements for these parts.


1. In removing reducer from shaft, be careful not to damage ends of hub.

2. Remove all bolts from housing. Open housing evenly to prevent damage to parts inside.

3. Lift shaft, gear, and bearing assemblies from housing.

4. Remove seals and bearing cups from housing. REASSEMBLY:

1. Output Hub Assembly: Heat gear to 325 to 350F. to shrink onto hub. Heat bearings to 270 to 290F. to shrink onto hub. Any injury to the hub surfaces where the oil seals rub will cause leakage and makes it necessary to use a new hub.

2. Countershaft Assembly: Shaft and pinion are integral. Press gear and bearings on shaft. Press against inner (not outer) race of bearings.

3. Input Shaft Assembly: Shaft and pinion are integral. Press bearings on shaft. Press against inner (not outer) race of bearings.

4. Place right half of housing (as shown in drawing) on blocks to allow clearance for protruding end of output hub.

5. Mesh output hub assembly and countershaft assembly together and place in housing half. Place input shaft assembly in housing half. Tap lightly with a rawhide hammer (not lead hammer) until bearings are properly seated in the housing. Make -sure that the snap rings on the O.D. of the bearings come into contract with the housing.

6. Place a new housing gasket on the housing half. Place other half of housing into position and tap with a soft hammer until the housing bolts can be used to draw the halves together. Draw halves together evenly to prevent damage to parts.

7. Extreme care should be used in installing seals on input shaft and output hub to avoid damage to seals due to contact with sharp edges of the keyseat in the input shaft or the hole in the output hub. This danger of damage and conseguent oil leakage can be decreased by covering the keyseat and holes with scotch tape or paper which can be removed sub-seguently. Seals should be pressed or tapped with a soft hammer evenly into place in the housing, applying force only on outer corner of seals. A slight oil leakage at the seals may be evident during initial running in, but will disappear unless the seals have been damaged.

Table of Bearing Numbers

The bearing numbers given in the Price List on the inside of this sheet are Dodge Part numbers. The table immediately below also gives the corresponding New Departure numbers to permit the purchase if desired, of New Departure or equivalent bearings made by other bearing manufacturers.
Page 37:


Motor Will Not Run Blown fuse in main switch panel Master switch defective or not in "on" Motor switch defective or not in "on" Capacitor on motor Motor Broken connection in wiring Reversing micro switch Reversing timer motor position position
Water Will Not Enter the Tub Manual valve in water lines closed Dirty screens (some models) Valve solenoid coil Micro switch(s) Quick Change Timer Water Level Control Dirt in air line to water level control Warm water only switch Broken connections Inadequate water pressure
Water Will Not Shut Off Inoperative water valve - clean or replace parts Micro switch - Quick Change Timer Additional Water switch Too much water pressure Dirt in airline to water level control
Will Not Drain Dump Valve Solenoid Micro switch in Quick Change Timer Broken or loose wire Broken linkage spring
Dump Valve Leaks Dump valve rubber seat Foreign object on valve seat Dump valve diaphragm Binding valve plunger rod
Basket Runs Only One Way (Stops) Reversing timer motor inoperative Reversing Micro Switch(s) Broken electrical connection
Quick Change Timer Does Not Advance Clock motor inoperative Clutch slipping Dial shaft binding
Basket Does Not Turn Loose belt Loose motor pulley Loose gear reducer pulley Stripped reducing gear in gear case
Page 42:

Page 43:

Page 44:


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Thumbnail Image of Download 1975 Frigidaire Wall Ovens and 30 Inch Electric Ranges Service Manual
Complete service manual to all 1975 Frigidaire home 30" wide electric cooking ranges along with all 1975 Frigidaire Wall Ovens. Complete troubleshooting, service instructions and wiring diagrams included.

Models include:
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1975 80 123mb $14.99
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Complete service manual to all 1976 Frigidaire built-in electric ranges and wall ovens. Complete troubleshooting, service instructions and wiring diagrams included.

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Thumbnail Image of Download 1979 Frigidaire 30 Inch Electric Ranges Service Manual
Complete service manual to all 1979 Frigidaire home 30" wide electric cooking ranges. Complete troubleshooting, service instructions and wiring diagrams included.

Models include:
RE-636VG, REG-638VG, REG-639CVG, REM-638VG, REM639CVG
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1979 86 113mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1968 Frigidaire Free-Standing Electric Range Service Manual
Here is the comprehensive service manual to all 1968 Frigidaire 30" and 40" free standing electric ranges.

Models include:
30" Ranges: RSA-30N, RS-30N, RS-35N, RD-35N, RDG-38N, RCDG-39N, RE-30N, RSAE-30N, RSE-36N, RDE-38N, RCDE-39N, RCIE-39N, RXE-39N

40" Ranges: RS-10N, RD-20N, RDDG-20N, RCDG-71N, RSE-15N, RDE-20N, RCIE-75N

24" Ranges: RAN-4, RAH-4
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1968 74 106mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1968 Frigidaire Refrigerator-Freezer N Line Service Manual
Here is the comprehensive service manual for all 1968 Frigidaire home refrigerator-freezer models.

Models include:
D-100N, D-116N, FD123TN, FD-141TN, FCDM-148N, FPD-121TN, FPD-146TN, FPD-146TAN, FPD-166TN, FPD-166TAN, FPD-144BN
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1968 95 71mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download Frigidaire Basic Refrigeration Home Study Course
Here is a great primer to learning how to service 20th century refrigerator-freezers. It is a home study course from Frigidaire although this is valid for most brands of refrigerators.

Topics include:
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1978 64 71mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1953-1958 Frigidaire Refrigerator Parts Catalog
Here is a complete catalog with illustrations of parts, part names and part numbers for all Frigidaire Home Refrigerator-Freezers.

Models Include...
1953 Models:
AS-44, AS-44F, AS-61, AS-83, AS-76, SS-77, DS-90, OS-106, IS-106, IS-106P, IS-108, IS-108P, MS-86, MS-90, SS-72, SS-74, SS-86, SS-86P, SS-97, SS-114

1954 Models:
AT-44, AT-61, CT-70, CT-701, CT-702,CTD-84, CTD-84P, CTD-841, CTD-841P, CTD-842, CTD-842P, CTD-103, CTD-1031, CTD-1032, CTD-103S, CTI-103, CTI-103P, CTI-1031, CTI-1031P, CTI-1032, CTI-1032P, CTI-130, CTI-130P, CTI-1301, CTI-1301P, CTI-1302, CTI-1302P, CTI-150, CTI-150P, CTI-1501, CTI-1501P, CTI-1502, CTI-1502P, ST-76, ST-761, ST-762, STD-76, STD-761, STD-762, STD-91, STD-91P, STD-911, STD-911P, STD-912, STD-912P, STD-110, STD-1101, STD-1102

1955 Models:
AY-44, AY-61, CDV-84, CDV-103, CDV-103P, CDV-1031, CDV-1031P, CDV-1032, CDV-1032P, CDV-103S, CDV-112S, CIV-84, CIV-84P, CIV-841, CIV-842, CIV-841P, CIV-842P, CIV-1121P, CIY-1122P, CIV-112, CIV-112P, CIV-1121, CIV-1122, CIV-115, CIV-115P, CIV-1151, CIV-1152, CIV-1151P, CIV-1152P, CIV-1501P, CIV-1502P, CIV-143, CIV-143P, CIV-1431, CIV-1431P, CIV-1432, CIV-1432P, CIV-150, CIV-150P, CIV-1501, CIV-1502, SV-76, SDV-76, SV-76S, SDV-91, SDV-91P, SDV-911, SDV-912, SDV-110, SDV-91S, SDV-911P, SDV-912P, SDV-91PS

1956 Models:
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1957 & 1958 Models:
CP-123-57, CP-141-57, CP-125-58, CP-144-58, CP-123-57, CP-141-57, CP-125-58, CP-144-58, PGP-141-57, PCP-144-58, D-11S-58, FD-101-57, FD-102-57, FD-120-57, FD-120-57, PFD-120, FD-122-58, FD-122-58, FI-120-57, FI-123-58, FI-120-57, FI-123-58, PFI-120-57, PFI-123-58, FI-121-57, FI-122-58, FI-121-57, FI-122-58, PFI-122-58, FP-142-58, FP-142-58, FS-101-57, FD-104-58, FD-104-58, PFS-101-57, PFD-104-58, S-80-57, SA-81-57, S-8-58, SA-8-58, S-80-57, SA-81-57, SS-81-57, S-8-58, SA-8-58, SS-8-58, SS-81-57, SS-8-58, S-104-57, S-124-57, D-11-58, D-13-58, S-104-57, S-124-57, D-11-58, D-13-58, PD-11-58

Having the manufacturers part number for the part you need is essential for doing internet/eBay searches to locate these rare, no longer available parts. In many circumstances they can be found once you know the part number. This guide is essential for anyone who has any vintage Frigidaire appliance.
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1958 634 145mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1965 Frigidaire Refrigerator-Freezer J Line Service Manual
Here is the comprehensive service manual for all 1965 Frigidaire home refrigerator-freezer models. Also included is the supplement for servicing their brand new automatic ice maker.

Models include:
S-10J, D-10J, D-12J, D-14J, FD-12TJ, FDA-13TJ, FD-13TJ, FD-14BJ, FCDM-14J, FPD-12TJ, FPDA-14TJ, FPD-14TJ, FPDA-14BJ, FPD-14BJ, FPD-16BJ, FPD-19BJ, FPI-12TJ, FPI-14TJ, FPI-14BJ, FPI-16BJ, FPI-19BJ, FPI-16BAJ.
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1965 120 103mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1966 Frigidaire Refrigerator-Freezer K Line Service Manual
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Models include:
S-10K,D-10K, D-12K, D-14L, FDA-12TK, FDA-13TK, FD-13TK, FDA-14BK, FCDM-14K, FPDA-14-12TK, FPDA-14TK
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1965 96 72mb $14.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1955 ABC-O-Matic Automatic Washer Service Manual
Full and comprehensive service manual to the 1955 line of ABC-O-Matic automatic and semi-automatic washers. Service bulletins also included at the end of the document.

Models include: 61, 71, 81 and 91.
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1955 56 77mb $12.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1965-1966 Frigidaire Coin-Operated Washers Service Manual
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Automatic Washers
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1965 132 171mb $12.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1964 Montgomery Ward Portable Dishwasher Owners Manual
Here are the complete use/care and operating instructions to Montgomery Ward's Signature portable dishwasher model FFT-977 and FFT-937.

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Montgomery Ward
1964 12 22mb $11.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1953-1960 Westinghouse Service Beacons
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Automatic Washers & Dryers
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1960 230 222mb $12.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1961-1962 Westinghouse Service Beacons
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Automatic Washers & Dryers
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1962 268 176mb $12.99
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Automatic Washers & Dryers
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1965 274 218mb $12.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1972 Kenmore Washer Owners Manual
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Here is the complete use and care guide to the 1954 Kenmore Automatic Washer.

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Automatic Washers
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1959 20 28mb $11.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download Electrolux XII Vacuum Cleaner Owners Manual
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Thumbnail Image of Download 1967 Easy Automatic Washer Service Manual
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1967 60 72mb $12.99
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Thumbnail Image of Download Construction and Operation of the Bendix Home Laundry
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Sections include:
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