HOW TO USE your Hamilton automatic washer
table of contents
Your Hamilton Washer Instruction Book
To use your Hamilton Automatic Washer with greatest satisfaction right from the start we urge you to keep this instruction book at hand. Read it before washing your first load and refer to it often. Your own good washing habits will require that you wash garments before they become heavily soiled, avoid overcrowding of the tub, sort clothes carefully, use proper water temperature for the particular load and the right kind and amount of detergent, soap, softener, bleach. With such help your Hamilton Automatic Washer will yield the utmost pleasure in continued use.
HAMILTON MANUFACTURING COMPANY
Home Service Director
Know your Hamilton Washer.................................... 4
Here's what your washer
will do for you automatically ............................ 5
Cycle-Set Sequence -
Here's what it does .................................... 6-7
Let's Wash Clothes ....................................... 8-16
Sort your clothes ..................................... 8
How big is a load...................................... 8
Now set the controls ............................... 9-14
Start your washer .................................... 15
Add detergent or soap................................. 15
Load your washer...................................... 16
If your washer should stop.................................. 17
Hamilton washday hints............................... 18-19
Stain Removal Guide ................................. 20-24
Washing special items ............................... 24-29
If your washer has a Suds return............................ 30
How to care for your washer................................. 31
Proper installation ........................................ 32
Two Rivers, Wisconsin
The warranty certificate for this appliance should be filed with your other important papers. When the warranty cards and certificates are properly filled out and signed by your Hamilton dealer, it automatically establishes the effective date of your warranty. For prompt and efficient service, present the certificate to your Hamilton dealer when requesting information and/or service. In all correspondence, please refer to the model number and serial number shown on the face of the certificate.
Know your Hamilton Washer
Each model of the Hamilton Automatic Washer has its own combination of useful features. Use this chart to identify your washer and the features it provides for your convenience.
(please see download file for chart below)
* Refer to page 10 for operating details.
Here's what your Hamilton Washer will do for you... automatically
FILL THE TUB
Use as much water as you need, choose hot, medium, warm, cool or cold water.
AGITATE THE SOILED CLOTHES
For 3 minutes or 10 minutes-you decide.
Use normal or gentle washing action-you decide. SAVE THE SUDS (in Models equipped with suds return.) DRAIN WATER FROM WASHED CLOTHES With normal or gentle spin-you decide.
RINSE CLOTHES BY EVERY APPROVED METHOD Shower-spray clothes and tub
Condition fabric with Calgon in your Fabric-Conditioner Give 1 minute pause to disperse soil Remove rinse water Shower spray clothes and tub SPIN OUT EXCESS MOISTURE SHUT OFF
Your Hamilton Automatic Washer also permits you to lengthen or shorten any operation manually.
here's what it does
WASHING IS COMPLETE IN 33 MINUTES
4 Min. FILLS TUB WITH WATER AT DESIRED TEMPERATURE
10 Min. TEN MINUTES OF SOIL-SEEKING WASHING ACTION
1 Min. PAUSE
1 1/2 Min. DRAINS AWAY SOILED SOAPY WASH WATER (Spinaway extraction)
1/2 Min. TWO 15-SECOND SHOWER RINSES OF DESIRED TEMPERATURE SPRAY TUB AND CLOTHES (for loose dirt particles)
3 Min. FRESH WATER FILL-CLOTHES SOAK (dirt particles brought to surface)
4 Min. AGITATED OVERFLOW DEEP RINSE (floats away loose particles)
1 Min. AGITATED FRESH-FLO DEEP RINSE (fresh water thru all fabrics)
1 Min. PAUSE
1 1/2 Min. RINSE WATER REMOVED (Spinaway)
1/2 Min. TWO 15-SECOND SHOWER RINSES (give final rinse)
5 Min. EXTRACTION UNIT TURNS OFF
WASHING IS COMPLETE IN 19 MINUTES
4 Min.FILLS TUB WITHWATERAT DESIREDTEMPERATURE
3 Min.THREE MINUTESOF SOIL-SEEKINGWASHINGACTION
(gets fine fabric washables far cleaner than by hand washing)
1 1/2 Min.DRAINS AWAY SOILED SOAPY WASH WATER (Spinaway extraction)
1/2 Min.TWO 15-SECOND SHOWER RINSES OF DESIRED TEMPERATURE
(for loose dirt particles)
3 Min.FRESH WATER FILL-CLOTHES SOAK (dirt particles brought to surface)
1 Min.SURFACE OVERFLOW RINSE
1 Min.AGITATED DEEPRINSE
3 Min.SPIN-AWAY EXTRACTION
UNIT TURNS OFF
Let's wash the clothes ...
SORT YOUR CLOTHES. Sort clothes for laundering as you have always done. Include fine cotton, rayon, acetate, nylon, dacron lingerie, blouses, dresses, and fabric gloves. They look better after a two minute Hamilton washing on "Warm", "Medium", or "Cool" water setting than after "Washbowl" washes. Fragile materials, laces and nets should be washed in a net laundering bag. White synthetic fabrics - nylon, orlon, dacron - should not be washed with colored garments, even though colorfast. They readily pick up color which is difficult to remove.
The rest of the family washing may be sorted into: fast colored, white and light-colored clothing, heavily soiled work clothing, special items such as blankets, bedspreads, cotton rugs. Do not wash more than two large items such as a sheet or large tablecloths with your regular wash load. This permits better circulation and more thorough washing.
If you add an extra garment to the load during the wash cycle, make sure that it is completely submerged in the water.
Remove stains before washing; mend rips, empty pockets, close zippers. Belts and socks may be washed and dried together in a net bag. For details on stain removal see Page 20.
HOW BIG IS THE LOAD? Your washer is designed for an average size load of 8-9 pounds (dry weight). The following list may help you in judging the size of a dry
One single sheet(muslin)1.5 Pounds
One double sheet (muslin) . . . .2 Pounds
3to 4 pillow cases (muslin)1 Pound
2 Turkish bath towels, average wt...................... 1 Pound
4to 5 Turkish hand towels1 Pound
15 Turkish wash cloths ................................ 1 Pound
5to 6 tea towels .................................... 1 Pound
One dozen linennapkins ........................¾ Pound
2 Men's shirts ........................................ 1 Pound
Percale weighs ¼ to ½ pound less per sheet than muslin. Three yards of average weight cotton material will weigh one pound. Two yards of heavier cotton fabric, such as Turkish toweling or corduroy, will weigh a pound or more.
NOW SET THE CONTROLS. Identify the control panel on the succeeding pages for your machine. The simple step by step procedure will enable you to prepare your machine for optimum operation.
WASH SPEED SWITCH
BUTTON WASH WATER WATER SELECTOR
SELECT WATER TEMPERATURE FOR WASHING AND RINSING
If your washer has a push-button selector switch you have the following water
Wash Water Push-Button Selection
(This position available only on unit equipped with suds-return)
Use for- pumping suds water from storage tub
(As hot as your(Between Hot(Automatically(Between warm
tank provides)and Warm) controlled at and cold)
Use for-Use for-100°)Use for-
white orlightly soiledUse for-lightly soiled
fast coloredgarments, treatedwoolens, silks,synthetics and
cottons cottons, blends acetate, synthetics, woolens
with cottons,blends, colored
(As cold as supply provides) Use for- garments with hang tags that specify cold water for washing
Rinse Water Push-Button Selection "Cool"
(Automatically controlled at 100°)
Use for-woolens (Always rinse woolen articles at temperature used for washing)
(Between warm and cold)
Use for-Cottons, silks, acetate, wool-if garment was washed in "Cool" water
(As cold as supply provides)
Use for- Synthetics, blends, family loads of white or colored cottons, treated cottons
To operate, simply press button for desired temperature settings. Any combination of wash and rinse water temperatures may be selected.
SELECT THE WASHING ACTION
for vigorous action, to loosen deeply imbedded soil. For all heavy-duty cotton loads.
gentle action to encourage dispersal of light soil. Especially recommended for synthetic fabrics and blends, acetates, silks.
SELECT SHORT OR NORMAL CYCLE ON "YOUR CYCLE-SET
Pull out and rotate Cycle-Set knob clockwise to "Fill" position of Short or Normal cycle. A sharp stop in the Cycle-Set dial indicates the start of the Normal Cycle. Use short cycle for lightly soiled garments or for delicate fabrics-your machine will handle the same 8-9 pound load-using less washing time. Most women prefer to wash frequently in smaller loads.
Use Normal cycle for ordinary family loads requiring a full wash period.
To start fill cycle, lid must be closed.
NOTE: You can manually skip, shorten, or repeat any operation. Knob must always be turned clockwise.
SPIN STOP CONTROL
If lid is raised during a spin cycle, washer stops automatically. Close lid to re-start.
If cycle-set knob is moved to any other cycle lid must be closed before washer action will resume.
If your washer has a dial water temperature selector you have the following temperatures from which to choose:
(As hot as your water tank provides)
Use for-white or fast colored cottons Rinse water will automatically be cold
(Between hot and cold) Use for-woolens, treated cottons, silks, acetates, synthetics, blends
Rinse water will automatically be warm
(As cold as your supply provides)
Use for-lightly soiled synthetics and garments with hang tags that specify cold water washing
Rinse water will automatically be cold
(This position available only on units equipped with suds return)
Use for-pumping suds water from storage tub Rinse water will automatically be cold
Should you desire to use a warm rinse when using the "suds" position or "hot" fill position simply move the selector switch to desired setting after washer has completed the fill cycle. When using the "warm" position a cold water rinse can be obtained in the same manner.
SAFTI-MATIC RESET BUTTON
WATER SELECTOR KNOB
Pull out and rotate Cycle-Set knob clockwise to "Fill" position of Short or Normal cycle. A sharp stop in the Cycle-Set dial indicates the start of the Normal Cycle.
Use short cycle for lightly soiled garments or for delicate fabrics-your machine will handle the same 8-9 pound load-using less washing time.
Most women prefer to wash frequently in smaller loads.
Use Normal cycle for ordinary family loads requiring a full wash period.
NOTE: You can manually skip, shorten, or repeat any operation. Knob must always be turned clockwise.
WASH-RINSE WATER SELECTION
On models without a water selector control you choose wash and rinse water temperature by turning the hot and cold water faucets for the temperature recommended. After the "fill" time is completed you may change faucet settings to obtain a different rinse temperature.
SELECT SHORT OR NORMAL CYCLE ON YOUR CYCLE-SET
8-9 pound load-using less washing time. Most women prefer to wash frequently in smaller loads.
Use Normal cycle for ordinary family loads requiring a full wash period.
SAFTI-MATIC RESET BUTTON
Pull out and rotate Cycle-Set knob clockwise to "Fill" position of Short or Normal cycle. A sharp stop in the Cycle-Set dial indicates the start of the Normal Cycle. Use short cycle for lightly soiled garments or for delicate fabrics-your machine will handle the same
NOTE: You can manually skip, shorten, or repeat any operation. Knob must always be turned clockwise.
1.Open faucets which were closed after last washing.
2.Check to see that drain hose is not kinked and is in drain.
3.Check to see that electrical cord is plugged in.
4.Run hot water before filling washer to make sure it is free from rust. "Hot" marking on your washer means water as hot as tank will supply. Rusty colored water from pipes not used for some time should be "run off" so that it does not stain clothes in the tub.
THEN START YOUR WASHER
Push the Cycle-Set knob in to start "Fill" cycle.
Add the Detergent or Soap You Prefer
Measure the synthetic detergent, or soap flakes of your choice and put into washer.
Depending on water hardness and amount of soil in the clothes, you may use three-fourths to a full cup of soap flakes or synthetic detergent with a full load. In hard water, soap flakes require a non-precipitating water conditioner, such as "Calgon". The new liquid detergents are favored in cold water washing. If bleach is used, mix well with water before adding clothes to tub.
Load Your Washer ...
Add load of clothes being careful not to overload.
NOW PLACE YOUR FABRIC CONDITIONER OVER THE AGITATOR
(Use of soap in un-softened water make fabric conditioning desirable. Your Hamilton Fabric-Conditioner and Calgon, nationally distributed water conditioner, provide this simple re-conditioning method. Use it for diapers and other baby laundry.)
1- In 1½ cups hot water dissolve as much Calgon as is recommended and pour into the Fabric-Conditioner.
2.Close the washer lid. Calgon will automatically dispense into the rinse water following the first spin.
THE REST IS AUTOMATIC -
Your washer will now go through its various operations automatically. Certain safety features are provided to assure satisfactory operation. See page 17 to become familiar with these features.
IF WASHER STOPS
Do not confuse the 1 minute pause between timer cycles with washer failure. If the machine should stop before completing the load automatically:
1 Check to see if the Safimatic Reset Button is down.
2 Make certain the Cycle-set control is in the proper position.
3 Be sure that the service cord plug is in the receptacle.
4 Check fuse box for burned out fuse.
5 Some models will stop during spin if lid is opened. Simply close lid to restore operation.
If the above conditions are satisfactory, it may be that the automatic motor protector has broken the circuit to prevent the motor from overheating. The protector will automatically re-energize the motor within a few minutes and put the washer back in operation.
If there is continuous or repeated interruption of motor operation an authorized Hamilton serviceman should be called.
Saftimatic Reset Button:
Should a heavy load become unbalanced during spin, the Saftimatic reset button, which projects from the top of the backguard panel on all Hamilton Washer Models, automatically stops the washer and the button will snap up.
Open washer lid and redistribute the clothes evenly. Push the reset button down and washer will automatically continue from where ever it left off.
Hamilton Washday Hints ...
SOAK PERIOD . . . For extra soiled clothing. You may want to soak very soiled clothes before washing to loosen soil and prepare them for more effective washing action. Fill the tub at the "Warm" setting to cover the soiled clothes and use only half the amount of detergent or soap and softener required for washing. Soak for no more than 15 minutes. Spray rinse, spin, and refill at "Hot" water setting. For pre-treatment of especially soiled areas see the instructions under the heading "Men's Shirts".
SOAP OR DETERGENT ... You decide. A good synthetic detergent, sudsing or low-sudsing, may be your choice. Or you may prefer soap flakes or powder to which you add a water conditioner such as "Calgon" if the water is hard. One of the good synthetic detergents is a wise choice for hard water.
"General purpose" detergents and soaps are used for
all family washings and "light duty" brands are reserved for delicate fabrics.
Use whichever well-known synthetic detergent or soap you choose for a long enough period to decide its effectiveness. This will give a better result than changing brands and types of detergents frequently.
BLEACHING . . . Keep it safe. Liquid chlorine household bleach cannot substitute for good washing. Now and then a diluted bleach solution, following the directions on the bottle, may be added in the "Fill" period after the tub has completed filling with water, but before clothing has been added. This will remove some types of stains and counteract the yellowing which comes with age. The complete rinse cycle is necessary to remove all traces of bleach liquid. Over-bleaching or insufficient rinsing of the bleach will weaken the fabrics. Chlorine bleach should not be used with water hotter than 160°.
A chlorine bleach should not be used on the new "crease resistant" resin treated cottons. It will change the color
of these cottons and cause white processed cottons to turn yellow. Powdered perborated bleaches such as "Snowy" may be used for rayon, silk, nylon and wool and are harmless to these fabrics.
BLUING . . . Can be simple Bluing ig a laundering "cosmetic" which helps to give the appearance of whiteness to clean clothes without actually bleaching them. Blue flakes or beads, easiest to use in your automatic washer, should be added during the "Fill" period in the amount specified on the package. If liquid bluing is preferred, it is added during the agitated Fresh-Flo Deep Rinse.
STARCHING ... If you starch. Many cotton dress fabrics and curtains now have a permanent "built-in" crispness which minimizes wrinkling and resists soil. Other cottons and some linens will gain improved body and appearance with starching. The bottled, instant, and cooked starches give you a wide choice and may be used with equal success. Where a dryer is used, the starch solution may be one-third heavier and it is advisable to dry starched articles together.
Take articles to be starched from the washer and place them in a container with the prepared starch solution. Work the starch well into the fabric before placing the starched load into the washer tub for the last 2 minutes of the final "Spin".
A full load of clothes to be starched may be starched in the washer. Wash and spin the load, cover well with starch solution. Agitate for one minute and follow with a 2 minute spin.
If another load is not washed immediately, the washer tub should be rinsed with hot water by filling for 2 minutes and spinning dry. This will remove all traces of starch.
FABRIC SOFTENERS If you like. You may wish to add recommended amounts of one of the new fabric softeners such as Nu-Soft or Sta-Puf to your final rinse water, particularly after washing Turkish towels and diapers. These new products add softness, fluffiness, and ironing ease to washables. Do not mix fabric softeners with soap or detergent solutions!
ALKALI STAINS. Yellow stains are made by the careless use of washing soda, lye, alkaline soap or from insufficient rinsing. Mild acids such as vinegar, lemon juice or diluted oxalic acid solution may be applied, followed by a very thorough rising.
BLOOD. Always use cold water on blood stains, first soaking them until the coloring matter is dissolved. Then wash in warm detergent water. If the stain persists, add 2 tablespoons of household ammonia to each
gallon of hot detergent water and soak for 15 minutes. Wash and rinse.
CANDLE WAX, PARAFFIN. Scrape wax off fabric with a blunt knife. (A greater amount can ferquently be removed by rubbing the spot with an ice cube to harden the wax while scraping) Then sponge the spot with carbon tetrachloride or some fluid cleaner. If color from dye in the wax remains it may be removed with peroxide, alcohol, or diluted bleaching fluid. Other methods for removing wax are to rub the spot with cold lard, turpentine, or kerosene, then wash or melt between blotters.
CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. Hot detergent water will generally remove stains from white cottons and linens. If a brown stain remains, remove it with peroxide or diluted bleach. For colored materials, if the dye is fast, soak the stained portion in wood alcohol to which a few drops of amonia have been added to make it alkaline.
COD LIVER OIL appears colorless when the spots are fresh so are frequently difficult to recognize. If not removed in the washing process the spot will yellow and
particularly so when ironed.
Place a pad under the spot and sponge with carbon tetrachloride, then wash in warm detergent water.
Another solution that may be used on either white or colored materials is as follows:
Mix I tablespoon of detergent (soap flakes or synthetic) with 2 tablespoons of boiling water. Allow this to cool, then add 2 tablespoons of amyl acetate (banana oil). Rub mixture on the stain. Launder in warm detergent water.
If the cod liver oil has stained,it is almost impossible to remove. Sometimes it can be removed from white cottons and linens by boiling the garment in a solution of
1gallon of hot detergent water to which 1 tablespoon of peroxide has been added after the solution has started to boil. Repeat the process if necessary.
COFFEE AND TEA. If heavy cream was used in coffee
or tea, sponge with carbon tetrachloride or cleaning fluid. Soak in cool water; then wash in warm detergent water. If stain remains, use 1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 quart water and soak for 15 minutes. Rinse at least three times.
FRUIT STAINS. Most fresh fruit stains can be removed from cottons and linens by pouring boiling water from a height of 3 to 4 feet through the stain. If the stains are old and the color set, rub them with glycerin and treat them with the hot water poured from a height. If the stain persists, it can be bleached with a good bleaching fluid, or oxalic acid and ammonia can be used alternately.
If the stains are on silk, wool, or any colored fabric, spread the garment over a bowl of hot steaming water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added; then apply hydrogen peroxide with a medicine dropper at
5minute intervals. Whether or not this treatment will fade colors will depend upon the dye in the fabric and can be determined only by testing on some unexposed part of the material.
Be sure to remove stain before it comes into contact with soap and water, as soap and other alkaline detergents may set the stain. For orange juice, soak the stain in lukewarm water and then wash it. If not removed, potassium permanganate and oxalic acid may be used on white goods. In white silk or wool, sodium hyposulphite may be used.
Rub with a cooking fat or oil, and wash in hot detergent or soap water. Bleach any remaining stain on white cotton garments with diluted chlorine household bleach. Wash fast colored cottons in warm water. If stubborn stain persists, apply alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Rinse thoroughly before drying.
GREASE, OIL FATS. For white goods soak in hot detergent water, then rinse. Hot means far hotter than the hands can stand. If stains are not removed, the linens and cottons may be boiled in detergent water. Sponging the spots of old stain with a solvent may remove them.
Lubricating and black grease such as machine and road oil are more easily removed if the spots are rubbed with lard until the lard is discolored and spots are softened. Then scrub the stains with a vegetable brush and a heavy, hot detergent solution. The same treatment can be used for tar and pitch.
Inks vary in kind. Some are easily removed, some difficult, and others, impossible. It is impossible to give a method suitable to all types. Some wash out in regular wash, especially if the ink is fresh. For all inks, first rub synthetic shampoo into stained area and allow it to stand 15 minutes before rinsing. Repeat a number of times if necessary. If stain is stubborn, try mixing paste of soda and hydrogen peroxide, spread on spot and hold over spout of tea kettle. If yellow spot (iron rust) remains, apply several drops of oxalic acid solution and re-steam, neutralize acid with ammonia and rinse.
BALL POINT PEN INKS. May be rubbed with vaseline then washed in hot detergent water.
IODINE. Fresh iodine stains may sometimes be removed by soapy water. The stains may also be treated with a solution of 1 tablespoon of "hypo" (sodium thiosulphate) to 1 pint of water. Sometimes the stain may be steamed out.
For heavy materials, apply a paste of starch and ammonia, brush the paste off as it dries. Repeat if the stain is not removed with one attempt.
Iodine on rugs may be removed by sponging with denatured alcohol followed by luke-warm suds made with a mild soap.
IRON RUST. Several methods may be used to remove iron rust.
Apply oxalic acid solution (concentrated) to the material spread over a bowl of hot water. Repeat until stain is removed. Rinse after each application. Use a few drops of ammonia in the last rinses. Sodium hydrosulphite may be used on white cottons and linens. Moisten spot, sprinkle on hydrosulphite and allow to remain for a few minutes until spot is removed. Rinse and wash
immediately in hot detergent water.
Iron rust soap may be used. Follow directions on the package.
Boil the stained piece in a solution of 1 teaspoon of tartaric acid to 1 pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.
For colored materials experiment with any of the above methods on an unexposed portion of material.
MILDEW Fresh mildew can often be removed by laundering. Lemon juice, salt, and sunshine are sometimes effective. For old stains a chlorine bleach may be used. The fabric with the small spots may be stretched over a bowl of hot steaming water and the bleach applied with a medicine dropper. Rinse material in hot water then neutralize with acetic acid using 2 tablespoons of acid to 1 gallon of water. Rinse the material thoroughly.
MUSTARD Soak the stain in a solution made of 1 tablespoon of sodium hydrosulphite to 1 pint of warm water. Then sponge stain with denatured alcohol. Or sponge with detergents suds, followed by light solution of chlorine bleach if detergent does not remove stain. Rinse well.
PAINT AND VARNISH. Fresh paint stains can usually be removed by applying lard, followed by turpentine or kerosene, then wash in a heavy detergent water.
For old or dry stains the resinous material may be softened with amyl acetate then sponged with carbon tetrachloride to remove the oil. When dry the insoluble coloring matter will brush off. Another method is to soak spots in equal parts of ammonia and turpentine and wash in hot detergent water.
PERSPIRATION. Perspiration stains on white washable garments can generally be removed by regular bleaching with a chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Perspiration frequently stains colored fabrics. Sometimes the color can be restored by holding the stain over an open bottle of ammonia, allowing the fumes to pass through it, or by sponging with white vinegar or acetic acid solution, or by a combination of the two methods. Perspiration odors may be removed by soaking the garment in a solution made of 3 tablespoons of salt to each quart of warm water for an hour or longer, or by sponging with Listerine.
Washing Special Items
It is wise to follow the individual manufacturer's directions for washing special items.
Where directions are not given for any article you will want to make sure that colors are fast and that shrinkage will not be excessive.
BABY CLOTHE Wash baby clothes separately from the family washing. Soak cotton nightgowns, shirts, sheets, pads in cold water until ready to wash. Diapers should be soaked in cold water to which one half teaspoon of borax has been added for each gallon of water. Wash all cotton baby garments and bed linens at "Hot" and complete the full wash and rinse cycles. A good all-purpose synthetic detergent or soap may be used, but use
of chlorine bleach in not recommended. If possible, dry in an automatic dryer for softness and fluffy texture. Wool knit baby clothes should not go through the wash cycle but may be soaked in gentle soap or detergent suds in the washer tub (set at "Warm") for 3 to 5 minutes depending on soil. Rinse at the same temperature. Use a one minute spin to extract moisture before shaping carefully on a flat surface to dry.
ELECTRIC BLANKETS. These should be laundered, never dry cleaned, strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's directions. The "immersion" or "soak" method given in this book for washing wool blankets can ordinarily be followed with excellent results.
FOAM RUBBER PILLOWS. Wash two at a time. Remove agitator from washer while tub is filled at "Warm" setting. They need only a 5 to 10 minute soak period in fine soap or synthetic detergent suds to freshen them. Allow the full unagitated rinse cycle so that no soap remains to cause deterioration of the rubber. Remove the muslin covers before washing and wash these separately. Air dry. The pillow should be thor-
oughly dry before using. Not all foam rubber pillows are of sturdy construction, so in this case especially obey washing instructions on the hang tag!
HANDKERCHIEFS. Soak a load of soiled handkerchiefs for 15 minutes, in warm suds and dilute chlorine bleach solution using the directions on the bleach bottle. This precaution is given to insure sanitation. Follow with agitated washing at "Hot" water temperature.
HAND KNIT AND FINE WOVEN WOOLENS. Refer to information on washing woolens given under heading "wool blankets". Use directions given for "Immersion" or "Soak" method, using the "Short" cycle. Use the "Warm" or "Cool" water setting and a mild soap or detergent. Turn garments over in a water once or twice during the soak process, removing any badly soiled spot with a light kneading rather than rubbing motion. Grease spots should be removed with cleaning fluid previous to washing and any fine or loosely knit woolen garment should be washed before it becomes heavily soiled.
Spread knit woolens flat to air dry, or use directions given for drying in your Hamilton Dryer.
Pre-treatment of extra-soiled neck and cuff bands insure better washability in the normal 10 minute wash cycle. Dampen collar and cuffs and sometimes front belt edge of shirt and work in soap or detergent suds (whichever is being used in machine) with a worn wash cloth or finger nail brush. Allow the suds to remain for several minutes before machine washing in the regular way.
NYLON, ORLON, AND DACRON SHIRTS, or blends of cotton with one of these fabrics, maintain better whiteness with a 3 to 5 minute washing in the Hamilton Automatic Washer set for "Warm" water temperature than when washed in the wash-bowl.
PILLOWS - FEATHER OR DOWN. Feather or down pillows may be washed successfully, especially when an automatic clothes dryer is available for drying. Old, worn-out feathers can not be rejuvenated in laundering, but a feather pillow in good condition will wash well. It is best to wash two pillows at a time to balance load.
Make sure the ticking is strong and is securely attached. Open two opposite corners of the pillow about one inch, turning edges in to meet each other and fastening securely with a safety pin. This allows the suds to slosh through without causing the pillow to balloon in the washer.
Wash at "Hot" or "Medium" water temperature with a good all-purpose synthetic detergent or soap and softener. Complete the full wash, rinse, and spin cycles.
SHEETS. Mend tears and holes in sheets and pillow cases before laundering. It is important to remove all stains from sheets before laundering. See "Stain Removal Guide". Stains can easily be set in sheets because of their close weave. If perspiration causes a yellow stain through the center section of white sheets, especially during the summer months, it is advisable to add ½ cup of household ammonia to the wash water along with the synthetic detergent or soap. Wash colored sheets separately from white sheets in water set at "Warm" or "Medium" temperature. Do not use a chlorine bleach or ammonia in washing colored sheets.
SYNTHETIC FABRICS AND BLENDS. Man-made fibers developed into fabrics such as nylon, orlon, dacron, dynel, acrilan, and vicara differ widely in their composition. In general they do not retain soil and release it readily. Your Hamilton Washer will help you retain the whiteness or good color of synthetic fabrics. (When color fastness is in question, or workmanship on the garment is poor, hand washing is recommended.) A three-minute wash period with a light duty detergent and "Warm" water setting followed by the complete rinse cycle, provides good washability. "Cool" water setting may be used for very light soiled garments. Never wash white synthetic fabrics with other colors even those proven colorfast. They take on a permanently dingy or discolored appearance.
If your Hamilton Washer has a dual-cycle, use "Sh6rt" cycle for delicate garments.
Blends of man-made fabrics with natural fabrics - cotton, silk, wool - should be laundered as if made entirely of the synthetic fabric with regard to gentleness of soap or detergent, warm, not hot water temperature,
and a brief washing period.
TINTING IN YOUR HAMILTON WASHER. Wash the garment, bedspread, curtains or linens you plan to tint, carefully removing any spots. Cover the inside of the washer lid with a large size polyethylene plastic bag or sheet of aluminum foil to avoid dye stains which may be hard to remove. Read tinting directions given for Rit, Tintex, or Putnam's Dye before thoroughly dissolving tint in hot water. Strain solution into tub of hot water, to desired depth of color, agitating briefly to mix. Place damp article in solution, move Cycle-set to "Wash" and allow to proceed through entire cycle. Remove article from washer and air dry or dry in Hamilton Dryer.
Wash any dye spots from washer, inside and out, and rinse thoroughly before using washer for another load.
WOOL BLANKETS. New wool blankets are soft, warm, beautiful and durable. Like all other woolen fabrics, especially those that are loosely woven, they have a ten-dancy to shrink during washing, due to their fiber struc-
ture. Any rubbing or excessive agitation of the fabric while it is wet will tend to felt the fabric and cause shrinkage. Wool gives up soil very readily and can be washed satisfactorily by the following automatic "Immersion" or "Soak" method.
Shake the blanket well and remove spots from the blanket as well as the binding. While you are doing this, allow the washer to fill on the "Warm" setting. Add a general purpose synthetic detergent (a mild synthetic detergent if the blanket is very lightly soiled) or mild soap flakes and "Calgon". Use the same amount of detergent as is needed for a normal cotton load. Then move the Cycle-set to "Wash" for only a minute in order to dissolve the detergent.
Now unscrew the top of the agitator and remove agitator. The agitator may be removed before the tub is filled, but in that case the detergent must be dissolved manually. In either case make sure that the agitator post is thoroughly clean before puting the blanket in the tub.
After carefully removing all of the spots from the blanket or binding with cleaning fluid or warm wash water, with the help of a soft brush, place the blanket in the warm suds, making sure that it is completely submerged. Close the washer lid and allow the Cycle-set to go through "Wash-Spin-Rinse" cycle. The washer will go through the cycle automatically without any agitation to cause shrinkage.
During the ten-minute soak period the blanket may be turned over gently in the wash water once or twice at the most.
When the wash cycle is completed take out the blanket and dry in the dryer according to directions given in your Hamilton Dryer instruction manual. If a dryer is not available, hang the blanket over two parallel clothes lines and do not fold. Do not fasten with clothespins. Several times during the drying period the blanket should be turned to insure uniform drying. In the event that you line-dry your blanket, choose a day which is warm and breezy, but not sunny enough to cause fading.
WORK CLOTHES. Kerosene is an effective solvent for removing oil, grease, or tar spots in pretreatment before washing. Rinse out the kerosene with warm water. Remove caked mud from trouser cuffs for lint and dust as well as foreign objects. Shake well before placing in washer tub set for "Hot" water temperature to wash through a complete cycle. It may be necessary to add an additional ½ to 1 cup of synthetic detergent, depending on size of load and amount of soil, in washing a load of work clothes. A soak period is often desirable to loosen heavy soil in work clothes.
When washing relatively new blue jeans an oily residue
sometimes remains in the washer. Thoroughly wipe out washer before washing a fresh load of clothing. The dryer may need similar attention.
CHENILLE. This material can be washed in your machine. Your dryer does a wonderful job. Otherwise stretch smoothly over line to avoid ironing. Hang wrong side out with square corners. Brush tufts, when dry, with small stiff brush.
LINENS. No starching is required for real linens or so-called "permanent finished" fabrics. Novelty cottons with a linen feel, however, should have a light starching rinse.
your Washer has a Suds Return .
Place the automatic Suds-Return hose in a stoppered laundry tub with the drain hose extension that leads from the unit into the second unstoppered tub or other convenient drain. You are now ready to start washing. Continue as you would when washing any regular wash load.
Following the wash period, the hot wash water will automatically drain into the stoppered laundry tub. A valve in the Suds-Return unit closes and the rinse water will automatically flow into the unstoppered tub or drain. No further attenion is necessary on your part until the washer has shut off and you are ready to wash the second load.
To re-use the stored wash water, push the "Suds" button or turn dial selector to "Suds" and turn the Cycle-set to ''Fill" position. Your Hamilton Washer takes over automatically. The water which was stored in the stoppered tub will return to the washer tub and the remaining cycles of wash, rinse, and spin will continue automatically.
To dispose of used wash water remove the stopper from the storage tub.
So Easy To Care For
Clean the wash tub occasionally, especially after washing heavily soiled garments. Remove the agitator by unscrewing the top knob. If the agitator sticks, tap the blade with the heel of your hand and pull upward.
Wipe the agitator and the post with a damp cloth and a good cleaner. Run a few galons of hot water into the tub ("Fill" position) and move Cycle-set to the "Wash" position, letting the agitator operate for a minute or two, then move to the ''Spin" position to remove the water. Normal care assures continued efficient operation.
Turn off the hot and cold water faucets and disconnect the electric service cord when the washer is not in use. This will eliminate the possibility of accidentally turning on the faucets or starting the washer and also protects the washer hoses.
It's easy to keep your Hamilton looking like new.
Simply wipe the cabinet and lid with a damp cloth after using. Use liquid equipment wax such as "Jubilee", on the cabinet occasionally to keep marks from the finish. Harsh abrasives are not necessary.
Your Hamilton washer is permanently oiled; absolutely no oiling is necessary.
After using, leave the washer lid open until tub is dry.
Your Hamilton is designed for washing with water.
DO NOT USE DRY-CLEANING FLUIDS IN THE WASHER
Locate your Hamilton washer wherever it is most convenient for you. Close to laundry tubs, sinks or a floor drain gives maximum efficiency. If you desire, the washer may be installed flush to a wall. Bolting to the floor is not required, but a firm floor is necessary.
To level your washer, adjustable rubber padded feet are provided. All Esi-level legs must rest evenly and firmly on the floor, as the washer must be level.
Separate hot and cold water outlets must be provided. These should have faucets so that water may be turned on and off as required. The water hoses must be attached to the washer and connected to the hot and cold water faucets. The drain hose should be placed in a convenient drain nearby.
An ample supply of hot water must be assured. 140° to 160° F. is recommended.
The Hamilton washer operates on 115 volts 60 cycle A.C. current. (Or, as otherwise indicated on the motor specification plate). A convenient wall outlet should be provided for the electrical service cord.
Your washer must be grounded. Your Hamilton dealer will be happy to show you how to comply with this and other easy installation requirements. For detailed information on installation, refer to the instalation instruction sheet that accompanied the washer.
DO NOT INSTALL YOUR HAMILTON WASHER WHERE FREEZING TEMPERATURES OCCUR.
for Completely Automatic Washdays