INSTRUCTION HANDBOOK FOR USE WITH IRONRITE AUTOMATIC IRONER
Custom Ironrite Automatic Ironer
This is your new Ironrite 95 Automatic Ironer. It has certain unique features which contribute to speed and ease of ironing.
Two completely usable open ends allow you to use both ends of your ironer. This makes for greater versatility, and enables you to iron any and all types of garments.
IRONING PLATE-the cast iron heating element that does the ironing. It is placed under the roll for greater safety. Two points (one at each end of the ironing plate) enable you to easily iron hard-to-reach sections.
THERMOSTAT CONTROL-gives you just the right heat for various types of materials (chart page 2).
HEAT SWITCH-safety light indicates when heat is on.
FOLDING WINGS-for added work space.
FOLDING LAP BOARD- provides more work space.
IRON CONTROL-for starting, and raising roll while ironing.
PRESS CONTROL-for stopping.
When the forming board is tipped up it may be moved to the right or the left making it easier to use the ironing points.
MANUAL RELEASE-to raise roll from ironing plate. Use for steaming garments, and to release garment in case of a power failure.
FORMING BOARD-for arranging garments to be ironed.
Your Ironrite has a number of specially patented features - all of which are designed to make your ironing easier, faster, and better. Use the diagram to locate these features on your machine, and to familiarize yourself with their purpose. When you're ready to start ironing:
1. Open cabinet. Adjust folding wings and lap board for greater working area. Plug cord into wall connection.
2. Turn on heat switch and let ironing plate heat for 4-6 minutes.
3. Turn on motor switch. Press iron control (right knee control) lightly to bring roll down to ironing plate and start it revolving. (Do not keep knee against control.)
To stop roll momentarily while ironing (to give extra pressing or drying action for especially thick or damp portions of garment, or when you need time to arrange fabric), use press control (left knee control).
4. When you have finished, raise roll and turn off heat switch. Switch off motor, and disconnect cord. Let ironing plate cool for 20-30 minutes before covering and putting away for "next time."
NOTE-Certain models may not have custom features such as light, movable forming board, adjustable casters, etc.
... A new concept
ONCE UPON A TIME, garments were pressed with smooth stones which had been heated in the sun. A pretty primitive way of operating-and improvements came slowly. As recently as the early 1900's, most homemakers still had only flatirons, which were heated on the stove and were heavy and hard to use. Then came the electric hand iron-a wonderful innovation. But more wonderful yet is today's modern automatic ironer which makes home laundering one of the most satisfying of household tasks- enabling you to give every item in your family's wardrobe the smooth, crisp look of elegance- and to do it with a minimum expenditure of time and energy.
Your automatic ironer operates on a totally new concept, UPSIDE-DOWN ironing, which means that the ironing board (the roll of your automatic ironer) is
on top, and the iron (the metal ironing plate which contains the heating element) is underneath. Just the opposite of hand ironing. Garments are ironed by passing between the roll and the ironing plate, and in this way, the pressure necessary to achieve that smooth, crisp look, comes from the roller-not from the arm that pushes the iron!
This is the truly wonderful thing about upside-down ironing; the reason why your automatic ironer is faster, easier, and does a better job. Additionally, when an automatic ironer has two open ends, as this one has, garments can be ironed at both the right and left ends. This makes for versatility and ease of operation; allows you to iron-beautifully- anything you can wash!
Noio, just turn the page...AND
DO IT YOURSELF!
Because of the increased pressure exerted by the roll, you do not need as much starch with an automatic ironer as with a hand iron.
Flatware requires no starch at all.
Shirt collars, cuffs, and buttonhole fronts require a little more than housedresses, children's clothes or curtains.
Check directions on your starch package or bottle.
Use only half as much moisture as you did for hand ironing. (If you have an automatic dryer, remove clothes before they are completely dry.)
When dampening wearing apparel, sprinkle only one half of garment -then fold dry sections inside moistened part. With towels, napkins, handkerchiefs, etc., dampen only every other one, then fold several together.
Linens take heavy dampening; cottons, medium; silks, woolens, rayons, acetates and cotton blends need be only slightly damp. Some of the newer synthetics can be ironed without sprinkling, although appearance will be improved with slight dampening.
Set your automatic ironer at the correct temperature for the fabric you are ironing. (Be sure to read and follow hang tag instructions.)
When ironing blends of several fibers use the setting for the most sensitive fiber. If garment has been dampened, a slightly higher temperature may be used.
Use the chart below as your guide to temperature control.
(please see download file for fabric chart)
Some Basic Tips and Techniques
As you work with your automatic ironer, you'll find there are certain basic principles which can be applied to the ironing of many different items. Because we think it will be helpful for you to have these fundamentals together in one place, we've devoted the next three pages to a series of general tips, and techniques you'll use over and over again.
A good habit
Use both ends of your ironer equally, so padding on the roll will not become matted.
Two ways to avoid wrinkles
1. When ironing several thicknesses of material, raise roll and adjust fabric when it requires smoothing. Drop material 3" down over ironing plate before continuing.
2. Make sure that you have ironed the material thoroughly dry. Good ironing is thoroughly-dried-out ironing.
How to dry thoroughly
To dry out damp, double thicknesses (as on collars, cuffs, etc.) "hold to press." This means, stop roll from revolving by using the press control. (See diagram inside front cover.) Hold for a second or so, then start roll revolving again and continue to iron. Avoid using press control for long periods with synthetic fabrics.
When to use press cloths
Press cloths should be used for steaming, and with any fabrics that tend to develop a shine when ironed. Place cloth over forming board and ironing plate. Arrange garment to be ironed on top of press cloth.
Use with acrylics and acrylic blends of dacron, viscose and mohair; and with all blends resembling wools, wool jerseys, and gabardines.
What to do about zippers
Iron them with teeth against the roll. Dry them out thoroughly by using press control.
Some Basic Tips and Techniques-Continued
With soft plastic or shank buttons, iron between buttons over either ironing point (Fig. 1).
(Note: Before laundering, remove buttons with jeweled centers, or buttons of glass or plastic that will not withstand high temperature or pressure. Mark spot with contrasting colored thread).
Set ironer temperature on high setting. To steam knitwear, or materials like velvet, corduroy, suede, etc., place a well-moistened terry cloth towel over ironing plate. Drape garment, nap side up, over towel (just as you would over regulation ironing board). Do not use roll, but shift garment around, brushing nap gently in one direction. Move towel frequently to release more steam.
STRAIGHT: If collar is straight, as on a man's shirt, iron flat, and press to dry (Fig. 2).
TWO-SECTION: Start half of a 2-section collar at center front. Feed in at an angle (Fig. 3). Turn on forming board to finish. Do other half in same manner.
CIRCULAR: Iron flat from outer edge to neckline. Press to dry. Iron a section at a time until collar is completed (Fig. 4).
Sleeves and Cuffs
LONG OR THREE-QUARTER SLEEVES: With sleeve opening up, line up cuff edge of sleeve with end of ironing plate (Fig. 5).
Iron part way up sleeve. Raise roll. Straighten fabric and iron into shoulder seam (Fig. 6).
Repeat on other side, using other end of ironer. Iron cuff gathers over point. Open cuff. Press to dry on both sides (Fig. 7). SHORT SLEEVES: Place point of sleeve under roll, with ironing point at underarm seam. Iron up armhole seam to top of sleeve. If sleeve has cuff, hold to press (Fig. 8).
Iron patch pockets flat. Press to dry.
Slot pockets (on inside of dress, skirt or trousers) should be ironed before garment itself. To do this, place pocket over end of ironer (Fig. 9).
Ruffles and Gathers
Place gathered end of material over end of ironing plate at an angle, with gathers 1" to 3" from point of ironer. Lower roll, and hold (Fig. 10).
Spread gathers over point, and smooth fabric. Iron point of ironing plate into gathers. Hold. Repeat process until all gathers are ironed.
Fold sheet lengthwise. Iron from wide hem to small hem along open side, dropping folded side off end of ironer (Fig 11). DO NOT TURN, but place sheet in lap as it comes from ironer, lining up small hems. Repeat, ironing from small hem to wide hem. Place in lap as before. Hold fabric taut, raising roll when necessary, to smooth material.
In the same manner, iron folded side from wide hem to small hem. (So far, you have ironed 3 sections of your sheet.)
An easy way to iron 4th section, and fold your sheet at the same time, is to pick up sheet as it comes from the ironer (Fig. 12)
and place in lap in a letter "U" (Fig. 13). Then pick up the four thicknesses of the large hems (Fig. 14). Sheet will fall into easy folds in lap ready for last time through ironer (Fig. 15).
Short Cut for Sheets
1. Fold sheet lengthwise
2. Iron from wide hem to narrow hem on open side
3. Iron from narrow hem to wide hem on folded side
Fold sheet lengthwise with corners folded inside each other. With center fold at right, open side on left, iron on angle from center fold into corner (Fig. 16).
Remove from ironer. Slide to opposite end of ironer. Iron from open side into corner (Fig. 17).
Shift and straighten sheet, and iron down open side to other end of sheet. Angle into corner and continue ironing along open side until fold is reached (Fig. 18). Turn sheet. Iron down folded section to complete half of sheet.
Iron other side of sheet in same manner.
To iron cloths without a crease: Iron down center. Fold lengthwise; iron, letting ironed center section drop off end of ironer. Remove tablecloth from ironer and place in lap in same position. Continue to iron rest of cloth.
For table cloths with crease: Refer to sheet instructions.
For lace or cutwork: Place raised or pattern section next to roll.
For unusually large tablecloths: Iron single. Iron down center for 10"-12". Slide cloth back and over to right, and iron 10"-12". Slide cloth back and to left, and iron 10"-12". Repeat until all of cloth is ironed. (To avoid "ripples" where cloth hangs over edge of ironer, place hands under fabric at both open ends, holding table cloth at level with ironing plate.)
TOWELS: Place hem straight on forming board. Drop over shoe 2". Do not pull on edges as towel is being ironed.
PILLOW CASES: Iron from closed end. Hold with press control, to dry hem. Alternate feed-in position from one end of ironer to the other.
For speed, fold and crease later, with stored heat in ironing plate.
Correct Sprinkling Speeds Ironing
• To dampen a man's shirt, line up underarm and shoulder seams, folding back inside.
• Sprinkle button front. Turn over, and sprinkle buttonhole front.
• Smooth left sleeve on left front and dampen.
• Place right sleeve on top of dampened sleeve and sprinkle side that is up.
• Dampen collar.
• Fold collar down to cuff. Fold tail end of shirt up so shirt is folded in thirds. Fold from button front.
(size 14.5 and larger)
SLEEVES AND CUFFS: Follow procedure on page 5.
BACK: Starting at tail, with wrong side next to ironing plate, iron up to underarm (Fig. 19).
Raise roll. Pull shirt down, until yoke is over forming board and sleeves move freely over ends of ironer (Fig. 20).
Iron until points of yoke at collar are covered (Fig. 21). Center part of collar will be ironed, also.
Hold until yoke is thoroughly dry.
COLLAR: Iron flat and press to dry. Follow procedure on page 4.
FRONT: With buttons down, iron
across front to sleeves. Be sure point of shirt goes over point of iron (Fig. 22).
To complete front of shirt: Raise roll, draw shirt toward you until buttons are at edge of forming board. Shift shirt to right until sleeve is off board and 3d button is at edge of ironing plate (Fig. 23). Iron across to side seam.
Pick up shirt at center of collar. Turn so collar is at opposite end of ironer. Then iron buttonhole side of front, right side down.
in this order...
1. Sleeves 4. Yoke
2. Cuffs 5. Collar
3. Back 6. Two Fronts
Boys' Shirts or men's size 14 and smaller
For shirts too small for back to be ironed as above-boys' shirts, or men's size 14 and smaller:
Fold yoke across back on right side as shown (Fig. 24). Iron other half on opposite end of ironer. Follow directions above for rest of shirt. Angle back to complete below yoke. Iron collar.
(Iron with fly opened).
Iron pockets: Follow procedure on page 5.
Iron top from center back to side pocket (Fig. 25).
As soon as center back seam has fallen below ironing plate, raise roll and turn slacks, so belt is parallel to roll. Lower roll, and hold (Fig. 26). Smooth material and arrange pleats-keeping them taut. Iron down to bottom of fly.
In the same manner iron other half on other end of ironer.
Place cuff of trousers between roll and ironing plate, and hold (Fig. 27). Be sure seams are lined up so front crease will coincide with front pleat. Iron legs from cuff to 6" from crotch. Raise roll to adjust extra fullness away from crease. Angle so end of point follows back seam.
Raise roll, slide trouser over to other end of ironer to finish crease (Fig. 28).
Use pressing cloth placed over ironing plate, following procedure on page 4. For tops, follow slack procedure. For legs, press one crease (Fig. 29) ; reverse trouser leg and press other crease and seam.
Jeans and Pajamas
Place seam edge of leg lengthwise on forming board with point of ironer at crotch. Iron across leg from inner to outer edge (Fig. 30). Raise roll and turn pants so leg drops below ironing plate. Continue ironing to waistline (Fig. 31). Iron other half on other side of ironer.
Fold one leg inside the other. Starting with fly front, place over ironing plate and iron around (Fig. 32). Turn inside out while still folded, and iron other leg on opposite end of ironer.
When The Ladies Wear The Pants
Iron pockets: Follow procedure on page 5.
Slip top of garment over end of ironing plate and iron completely around, raising roll and smoothing, when necessary. Hold, to dry double thicknesses. (Or, if puckering occurs because of fitted darts, remove garment, fold on a seam, and iron double to dart.
Continue pressing in this manner until top is completely ironed.)
When ironing legs, place one on the ironing plate lengthwise and iron from the outside seam to middle of leg.
Raise roll and fold leg so crease will fall where desired (Fig. 33). Then place on ironing plate lengthwise and iron from crease to next seam. Repeat for other side of leg.
Use same procedure for other leg.
Sugar 'N' Spice
Little Girls' Dresses
CLOSED SECTION OF BODICE (front or back) : Iron underarm seam of left sleeve to waist, open section, up (Fig. 34).
Raise roll, and slip bodice onto ironing plate, dropping sleeve below plate. Iron across half of closed section of bodice to waist. (Fig. 35).
Slide bodice off end of ironing plate, and iron sash diagonally.
Repeat for other side using opposite end of ironer.
COLLAR: Follow procedure on page 4.
OPEN SECTIONS OF BODICE (front or back) : Iron singly over one open end from waistline to collar, dropping skirt below ironing plate (Fig. 36). Raise roll. Fold collar down in place and iron over shoulder (Fig. 37). Using opposite end of ironer, iron other half of bodice and collar in same way.
SLEEVES: For cartwheel type, bring gathers at cuff and shoulder together, creasing in center. Iron into gathers -about 4 movements (Fig. 38).
For balloon sleeve, iron on wrong side in sections, from top of sleeve to lower edge.
SKIRT: Set hem. Iron into gathers with skirt on angle, following procedure on page 5.
Iron Little Girls' Dresses in this order...
1. Underarm Seams 4. Collar
2. Closed Sections 5. Open Sections
3. Sash 6. Sleeves
UNDERARM: Fold double at side seam. Place lengthwise on forming board with closed section on top. Iron to dart (Fig. 39).
SLEEVES: Follow procedure on page 5.
SHOULDERS: Raise roll, drop sleeve below roll and iron across shoulder to collar (Fig. 40).
CLOSED FRONT OR BACK: Place closed section singly over ironing plate. Begin at center and iron to sleeve (Fig. 41). Angle, and iron to complete top of closed section (Fig. 42). Use opposite end of ironer to complete closed section.
OPEN FRONT OR BACK: Place tail of one open section in ironer, and hold. Iron to top. Hold to press at pockets, and when necessary, tc arrange darts. Iron from bottom of half section of blouse to armholes (Fig. 43). Raise roll, shift blouse and iron to shoulder seam.
COLLAR: Follow procedure on page 4.
BUTTONS: Follow procedure on page 4.
Iron Blouses in this order...
1. Underarms 4. Middle of Closed Section
2. Sleeves 5. Open Sections
3. Shoulders 6. Collar
All Dressed Up
SLEEVES: Follow procedure on page 5.
SHOULDERS: May be ironed double. Raise roll and shift after ironing sleeve. Fold at shoulder seam. Drop sleeve off back of ironing plate and iron across to collar. For dress with yoke, see Fig. 40, Ladies' Blouses.
UNDERARM SECTIONS: Iron double from armhole to waistline (Fig. 44). Iron other side on opposite end of ironer.
OPEN SECTIONS (front or back) : Iron from waistline to neckline or collar. If gathered at shoulder or waist, raise roll and shift to iron into gathers. Iron other half of open section on opposite end of ironer.
YOKE: If dress has yoke back, fold at bottom, on inside of dress. Place yoke on ironing plate, dropping sleeve below roll. Iron to center back. Iron balance of yoke on opposite end.
CLOSED SECTIONS (front or back) : Turn dress wrong side out, and fold bodice double at center or at seams. Place over end of ironing plate, dropping waistline gathers below plate, and iron to neckline-or to yoke, if dress has yoke (Fig. 45).
Raise roll and iron into waistline gathers, following procedure page 5. Use other end of ironer for other side of bodice. (If you wish to remove crease down center of closed section, slip opened bodice over shoe lengthwise. Hold to press.)
COLLAR AND POCKETS: Follow procedures on page 4 and 5 respectively.
SKIRT: See page 15 for procedures for different types of skirts. If skirt has unpressed pleats, iron these before doing bodice.
PRINCESS STYLE DRESS: Turn dress inside out. Pick up by seam and iron flat to next seam (Fig. 46). Repeat until fitted part of dress is finished.
CHILDREN'S PLEATED SKIRTS: Skirts pleated all the way around can be placed over padded roll and pinned. Pin several pleats in place. Turn roll with hand, holding waistband taut, until pinned section is over ironing plate (Fig. 48). Bring roll down, and hold to press.
PARTIALLY PLEATED SKIRTS: Arrange pleats on a slant on forming board. Lower roll and hold, to set pleats (Fig. 49).
CIRCULAR SKIRTS: Iron from hem to waistband following straight of material, not bias (Fig. 50). Take hold of waistband, and turn skirt until bottom fits over right end of ironing plate and waistband is off left end of plate (Fig. 51). Iron with straight of material for approximately 18". Then turn and repeat from first step until completed.
STRAIGHT SKIRTS: Iron waistband double. Hold to press. (Iron front and back of waistband.)
Slip bottom of skirt over ironing plate and iron around, covering as much as possible.
Slip top of skirt over ironing plate; iron around. Angle into top when necessary.
LONGER PLEATED SKIRTS: Arrange one pleat under roll. Lower and press. Arrange next pleat, and iron until it is just caught between roll and ironing plate. Press. Continue around skirt, being sure NOT to raise roll until all pleats are ironed.
SKIRTS WITH UNPRESSED PLEATS: Pick up waistband (for dress, turn to wrong side and drop bodice inside skirt). Place over forming board on angle. Press to set pleats. Raise roll, and continue setting pleats until finished (Fig. 47, page 14).
Caring for your Ironer
ABC's for keeping your ironer in tiptop shape
A. When muslin cover becomes soiled or scorched: Take cover off and wash it. Remove drawstring before laundering. If bleach is used, be sure to rinse thoroughly with a vinegar or lemon solution so cover will not turn yellow due to retained bleach, plus heat.
B. To keep pad soft and fluffy: To give best results, pad should be removed, shaken up and aired occasionally (after 3-6 months use it tends to become tightly packed). Pad may also be refreshed by placing in an automatic dryer for 5-10 minutes at low, or no-heat setting, but DO NOT WASH IT.
C. How to change roll cover and pad:
1. Raise roll, untie drawstrings and unroll cover. Then unroll pad. Underneath pad you'll find a piece of burlap which is glued to roll. Unwind, but never remove burlap.
2. Turn motor switch on. As roll revolves, adjust burlap so there are l½ turns on roll. (The balance should hang down over forming board and fall into your lap in easy folds.)
3. Press hold lever and lower roll against ironing plate (not revolving).
4. Place pad evenly on top of the burlap remaining on forming board. Start roll revolving. As padding rewinds, be sure to keep outside edges even with ends of metal roll (not extending beyond). If pad seems to be too wide, ease excess toward center.
5. Allow roll to make several turns, then stop, leaving approximately 10" of padding hanging down from forming board. DO NOT RAISE ROLL.
6. Now, place end of muslin cover on top of the padding remaining unwound (Fig. 52). Start roll revolving again and continue until cover is in place. Let roll revolve twice. Stop roll action when end of cover is between roll and ironing plate. Hold. DO NOT RAISE ROLL.
7. Pull up inner drawstring on each end of roll; then outer drawstring. Tie securely (Fig. 53). Wind extra string around bow and tuck loose ends under cover at either end of roll (Fig. 54).
(NOTE: if cover tends to wrinkle when ironing, tighten drawstrings.)
When It's Time for an Oil Change
The gear case in your Ironrite is located just behind the roll. The oil that accompanies the machine when it leaves the factory will keep it operating smoothly for 3 or 4 years. It should then be changed. To do this:
1. Drain off old oil by removing the plug which you'll find in the bottom of the gear case on the right side (fig. 55).
2. When oil has completely drained out, replace plug, then loosen screw in back of gear case and take off the cover (fig. 56).
3. Pour in new #S575 Ironrite oil only, (obtainable from your dealer or direct from the factory in a sealed metal can, accept no substitutes) and replace gasket.
Oil, new pads, and cover are available from your Ironrite dealer.
Is IRONRITE ironing faster than ironing by hand?
Yes. According to scientific tests, ironing on an Ironrite automatic ironer is 3 times faster than hand ironing.
Is it less tiring to iron on an automatic ironer?
Tests made by Ironrite on the Lauru Platform (a special electronic device that measures muscular effort) prove that hand ironing requires 1 2 times as much muscular effort as does Ironrite ironing. Additionally, cardiac tests shows that the heart returns to normal 8 times faster after ironing on an Ironrite.
Will garments ironed "automatically" look as nice as those ironed by hand?
In most cases they will look even better! Even heat allows uniform drying; greater pressure assures a crisp appearance; padded, revolving roll makes for smoothness.
What about upkeep and the cost of operation?
The need for service on ironers is the lowest in the appliance industry. The average Ironrite owner, for example, will have only one service call in 10 years or more! An Ironrite also costs less to operate than a hand iron because it is 3 times faster.
What about the safety factor?
An ironer requires only the same safety precautions that apply to a hand iron or range. The Ironrite automatic ironer is designed to reduce the possibility of accidental contact with the hot ironing plate.
How long will my IRONRITE automatic ironer last?
The life-span of an ironer is from 25-30 years or more. Periodic pad fluffing, cover replacement, and oil change will keep it in perfect operating condition.
Is it difficult to use?
Quite the contrary. The simple, basic instructions in the user's manual, will quickly enable you to give that valued "professional" look to everything you iron - from a man's shirt to frilly curtains. All the operator needs to do is guide the clothes -the ironer itself does the hard work.