Westinghouse Laundry Equipment Electric Motor Service Manual for split phase and capacitor start electric motors
INDUCTION MOTOR DESCRIPTION
Split Phase Motor ............................................................ 1
Capacitor Start Motor ........................................................ 2
HOW THE INDUCTION MOTOR OPERATES
(both split-phase & capacitor start covered) ........................................ 3
Capacitor Start Motor ........................................................ 5
Capacitor .................................................................... 5
Motor Illustrations .......................................................... 6
Capacitor Failures and Causes ................................................ 7
Capacitor Test ............................................................... 7
Motor Tests and Checks ....................................................... 8
Motor Test Charts ............................................................ 9, 10
End Bells .................................................................... 11
Start Switch ................................................................. 11
Start Switch, Mounted on End Bell ............................................ 13
Thermoguard .................................................................. 14
Centrifugal Switch (using Robinair Tool kit #14148) ..................... 15 thru 19
Centrifugal Switch and Thermoguard Replacement Chart ......................... 17
Q-81863 Motor Disassembly .................................................... 13
INTERNAL MOTOR WIRING DIAGRAMS ................................................. 19 thru 23
Original Production Motor Number vs. Replacement motor number
Dryers ....................................................................... 24
Automatic Washers and Drycleaners.................................Inside Back Cover
The motor service manual has been prepared by Westinghouse Laundry Service with a threefold purpose. First - to explain the motor thoroughly so you will better understand its operation. Second - to show you how to use this information to diagnose motor failures and third, to make use of the diagnosis by repairing the inoperative motor rather than replacing it.
Studies indicate that nearly 70% of all laundry equipment fractional HP motor failures can be repaired (and put back into service in the appliance) on the first call to the customers home. These same studies show that, more often than not, the inoperative motor is replaced rather than repaired and that it requires more than one call to perform the job.
This book is not intended to be a one volumn course on all fractional horsepower electric motors. Its intent is to help you to better perform your job as it applies to laundry equipment drive, pump and fan motors. Failures that occur on laundry equipment motors and which can economically and profitably be repaired are such parts as terminal boards, end bells, switches, thermoguard and capacitors (when they are used). There are also a number of adjustments that can be made to get the motor back into operation.
Only by making every correction or adjustment necessary on the appliance on_ the first cal I can you hold down your customer's service expense, improve your customer relations and make them long-time friends of your business.
Electric Induction Motor Description
WHAT IS AN ELECTRIC MOTOR?
A machine that changes electrical energy into mechanical energy to perform certain work loads.
TYPE OF ELECTRIC MOTORS
There are many different types of fractional horsepower motors (less than one horsepower). However we are primarily interested in the motors used on Laundry Equipment. The induction motor split-phase start, used on dryers, and the induction motor-capacitor-start, used on washing machines.
SPLIT PHASE MOTOR (Dryer)
The split phase motor has a main or running winding, and a separate starting winding. The starting winding is disconnected when running speed is reached by means of a centrifugal starting switch. The split phase motor has little starting torque and draws considerable starting current.
Fig. 1 Split Phase Motor
CAPACITOR-START MOTOR (Automatic Washer)
This type motor has a running winding of heavy wire, and a starting winding of lighter wire in series with a high capacity electrolytic capacitor. A suitable switch, (in this case a centrifugal switch) disconnects the capacitor and starting winding when the motor reaches running speed. The capacitor start motor then runs as a single phase motor. Very high starting torque is characteristic of this type motor, however relatively little starting current is required. It has no advantage over the split phase motor after it reaches running speed since they are practically identical after the starting winding has been disconnected.
Fig. 2 Capacitor Start Motor
An Induction Motor - What it is and how it operates
(Both Split-Phase & Capacitor Start Motors)
The induction motor can be regarded as two rotating electromagnets - one trying to keep up with the other. An electromagnet has a core of magnetizable substance, as soft iron, which is temporarily magnetized by the passage of an electric current thru a coil of wire surrounding it, but looses its magnetism when the current stops.
In the induction motor, one of the electromagnets has no visible source of this current.
This electromagnet obtains its current from the other electromagnet thru a process known as "induction" therefore the motor is called an "Induction Motor".
In order to understand induction motors, let's review a few simple facts about magnets.
We know that unlike poles attract and like poles repel, as illustrated in Fig. 3.
unlike poles attract
like poles repel
Now let's take three bar magnets and attach a shaft to the center of one in such a fashion that it is free to rotate. Then place one bar magnet on top and one below the magnet that is free to turn. See Fig. 4.
Since magnetism can also be produced by electricity, we will replace the bar magnets with electromagnets. As we have stated before, an electromagnet needs a current flowing thru a wire wrapped around its iron core in order to produce magnetism (Fig. 5).
Reversing AC current reverses the magnetic polarity and causes magnet to rotate on shaft.
60 cycle alternating current rises and falls a total of 60 times a second. Points "a", "c", "e" and "g" represent instants when the current is zero. From "a", the current is seen to start at zero, increase to a maximum value at "b", and decrease again to zero at "c", the current then becomes negative, which signifies that the current reverses its direction of flow in the circuit. Flowing in this opposite direction, the current again builds up to a maximum value at "d" and decreases to zero again at "e", completing one cycle.
The voltages and currents reverse 60 times a second, changing in value and polarity.
Since there are no connections to the rotor winding, there is no way to apply a voltage to provide a reaction force to start the rotor in motion. The rotor does have a winding in the form of heavy bars in slots with short circuiting rings at each end. This is called a squirrel-cage rotor because of the resemblance of the current-carrying conductors and end rings to the cylindrical cages originally made to exercise squirrels. By induction, the AC in the stator winding induces current in the rotor winding.
Although fairly large currents flow in these shorted loop windings there is no stationary torque. However, the motor will run in either direction in which it is started. As previously noted, this motor has a separate starting winding added to the stator, magnetically displaced from, and connected in parallel, with the main winding. The starting winding usually is wound from small size copper wire and is spaced 90 electrical degrees from the main winding. The center of each pole group of the auxiliary winding is spaced half-way between the centers of two pole groups of the main winding or phases. (See Fig. 9).
By using a small size copper wire for the starting winding, we can obtain a resistance which will decrease the current in this phase. As previously stated, the two windings (main and start) are spaced 90 electrical degrees apart and connected in parallel and the start winding has more resistance than the main winding; its magnetism comes to full value just a little after the main coil (or magnets) comes to full value, producing a rotating field, causing the rotor to develop torque. The motor starts and runs, because the rotor tries to follow the revolving magnetic field. After the motor has come up to approximately 75 to 80 percent of its running speed, depending on the frequency and applica-
tion, we must have a means to cut the starting winding from the circuit, in this case a centrif-ugally operated switch.
The starting switch prevents the motor from drawing excessive watts from the line and burning up the starting winding when operating at normal running speeds, as it would do with the starting winding in the circuit.
The split-phase motor could be made into a capacitor-start motor by adding a capacitor in series with the start winding. However, this does not mean that a motor designed for capacitor-start is the same as a split-phase motor with a capacitor added. In the capacitor-start motor, the windings are specially designed and proportioned, although both types of motors have two electrically distinct windings, generally located 90 electrical degrees apart, and the main or run winding is wound with a larger size wire and with fewer turns than the start winding. However, the start winding of a capacitor-start motor usually contains more copper than the start winding of a split-phase motor of the same rating. The line current of the capacitor-start motor is only two-thirds the line current of corresponding split-phase motor, yet this motor develops more than twice the starting torque. The split-phase motor has resistance deliberately built into the start winding so that the starting phase lags the running phase. The capacitor-start motor has a capacitor in series with the start winding (phase) which causes it to lead the main-phase voltage. The purpose of a capacitor is to lower the starting current of the motor and increase its starting torque.
A motor starting capacitor is an electrochemical device used mainly for phase shifting in connection with the starting of an electrical motor. The capacitor consists of a rolled cartridge comprising of two aluminum electrodes separated by layers of paper, all of which are impregnated in a conducting electrolyte and housed in an aluminum or plastic container.
Five Typical Laundry Equipment Motors
DRYER - 1/6 HP Double Shaft Motor TUMBLER WASHER-1/3 HP Single Shaft Motor
1/3 HP Single Phase Pump & Fan Motor Commercial WASHER
1/2 HP Single Phase, Double Shaft, Drive & Pump Motor TOP LOADING WASHER
1/3 HP Single Phase Drive Motor COMMERCIAL TOP LOADER
1/3 HP Reversible Drive Motor COMMERCIAL WASHER
Mounting Ring Rear End Bell
PLAM Motor Breakdown
Nylon Spacer Washers
Terminal Board and Stationary Switch
Front End Bell
CAPACITOR FAILURES AND THEIR CAUSES
Capacitor failures are usually caused by one or more of the following reasons: Excessive voltage, excessive cycling, excessive temperature and internal corrosion.
INTERNAL CORROSION is usually caused by impurities present during the assembly or processing of the capacitor or a broken or defective seal.
EXCESSIVE VOLTAGE usually caused by high line condition, or a chattering or improperly adjusted starting switch and possibly a defective winding.
The starting switch must be positive in action; it must not flutter. It is possible to get as high as double voltage impressed on the capacitor by a fluttering switch. This happens if the switch is fluttering and that it interrupts the circuit at such
a time as to leave the capacitor fully charged, then if the switch happens to close when the voltage is of the opposite polarity, double voltage will be impressed momentarily upon the capacitor.
EXCESSIVE CYCLING caused by low voltage or motor overload, causes motor to run in the starting position for a longer period than is recommended. With voltage applied to the capacitor for too long a period the extra heat accumulated will dry out the moisture content of the electrolyte, char the paper and the capacitor will cease_ to function. This capacitor will test open since no electrolytic action can take place without moisture.
EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURE can be caused by too frequent or too long a starting cycle or excessive voltage.
The following is a simple capacitor test to determine if the motor capacitor is Good, Open or Shorted.
Make up a test cord as shown in Figure 10 and with the cord plugged into an outlet:
(a) Turn S.P.D.T. switch to "AC" position.
1. If lamp does not light capacitor is Open Circuited.
2. If lam p lights -
(b) Turn S.P.D.T. switch to "DC" position.
1. If lamp does not light, capacitor is OK.
2. If lamp lights, capacitor is Shorted.
Discharge Capacitor After The Test is Complete. . . .
Discharge by Placing A Screwdriver or Other Metal Object Across the Capacitor Terminal s.
MOTOR TESTS AND CHECKS MOTOR FAILS TO START -
1. Check for voltage and frequency to the motor and that the voltage is within 10 percent of the voltage rating on the motor name plate. Voltage test should be made during the start test. This is especially important if the motor is attached to a machine.
2. Check with a test light across the terminals of the motor. A voltmeter gives a more positive analysis of the voltage.
3. Check the capacitor (if used on the motor) by temporary replacement or check the removed capacitor as outlined on page 7.
4. Check all connections and terminals at the terminal board to be sure they are tight and that they hav.e not been interchanged. Examine the switch and molded ring for any foreign material that could cause the ring to stick. Any foreign material in evidence should be cleaned off with a fireproof solvent, such as perchlorethylene or trichlorethylene.
Check for a bent or broken counter weight spring on the rotary switch. If such is found, the complete rotary switch must be replaced or new motor installed.
5. Check the starting switch to be sure it is operating mechanically as well as electrically. Examine the contacts to be sure they have the proper clearance and that the contact surfaces are clean.
6. Remove the belts from the motor. The motor shaft should turn freely; if not, remove the motor, disassemble and examine the bearings and shaft.
7. If a motor connected to the line will not start but will run normally when started by hand (by twisting the shaft), the trouble is in the starting winding or starting circuit. Check also for excessive end-play which can affect operation of the starting switch.
8. Check the shaft for end-play. Excessive end-play causes noise. End play should be .005 to .032.
9. Motor fails to Start Intermittently (After Use and Up to Operating Temp).
a. This may be due to a low calibrated thermoguard and is evident after the motor has come up to normal operating temperature. (See also para. 8, page 9) A thermoguard test can be made by locking the rotor with a belt and turning on the power. This test should be repeated. The thermoguard should trip in not less than a specified number of seconds. This information for a particular motor is published in the Laundry service manual for that particular motor and machine application. The timing can vary from 4 seconds to three minutes (cold motor) depending upon the motor phase and winding. (Time will vary with winding temperature). See page 9.
b. As a rule of thumb, if the motor, under locked rotor conditions, shows any indication of overheating before the thermoguard trips, the thermoguard is inoperative and should be replaced. Make a full load amperage test.
c. See Parts Replacement Section for information regarding changing thermoguards. Some Laundromat motors (see chart) do not require thermoguards since motor protection is accomplished by a thermal protector in the timer.
NOISY MOTOR -
1. Excessive end-play in the motor will cause noisy operation and will be accentuated if the belts are misaligned. Correct the end-play by adding nylon (see Parts List) washers to the shaft between rotor and end bell and by realigning the belts.
2. Loose set screw in motor pulley will allow the pulley to shift on the shaft. This will cause a knocking sound as well as cause scoring of the shaft. Remove the pulley, clean the shaft with a fine tooth file and crocus cloth and replace the pulley in proper alignment on the shaft. Tighten the set screw securely.
3. Worn bearings cause noise. Check the bearings in the end-bell for wear. Examine for possible damage due to water or other liquids which may have filtered through the vent openings in the motor. Correct the source of contamination.
4. Loose motor mounting clamps are another source of noise.
5. Worn rubber end rings or rings that have been softened from oil or other rubber solvent are a source of noise. Replace if necessary.
6. A split ring is used on the rubber motor mount to help support the motor when the motor clamp is put in place. The "split" of the ring should be "up" when the clamp is put in place. This will prevent the ring from overlapping at the ends with the result of noise.
7. Noise or hum usually quite pronounced, may be traced to the wrong motor application for the frequency furnished in the power line. This will be noticeable either way; i.e. whether a 50 cycle motor is being used on 60 cycle or a 60 cycle motor is used on 50 cycle. (Some motors are manufactured to operate on either.)
8. Wrong voltage to the motor, such as applying 220 Volts to a 120 Volt motor will not only cause excessive noise but will cause excessive sparking at the starting switch and short life to the motor.
1. Vibration in Dryer believed to be in the motor, most often may be traced to the blower fan when it is mounted on the motor shaft. Check the fan for unbalance. Blades may be cracked or missing, etc. Check for wads of lint in blower fin.
2. Uneven belts or those badly worn in spots can cause vibration.
3. Pulleys that are bent or damaged can cause vibration.
4. If vibration is traced to the motor, disassemble and examine the rotor fan which may be bent or damaged.
5. The motor centrifugal weight or weights may have become misplaced or out of line due to a broken or bent centrifugal weight spring. Examine parts carefully. Do not attempt to realign these parts. Replace the centrifugal weight spring and switch assembly as an assembly.
Motors operating at full load characteristically run "hot", i.e.-hot to the touch. Usually there will be a marking on the name plate indicating the degree of centigrade rise above the ambient or room temperature.
As an example: A motor marked with a 50° Centigrade rise (122°F.) may operate at approximately 190°F. in normal room temperature of 70°F. (70° + 122°). To the touch of the hand this is HOT but within the normal operating limits. The motor insulation and windings have been designed to operate up to this temperature. A motor marked for a 70° temp rise may operate at 228°F (158°F plus 70°F = 228°F.) Do not condemn a motor because of temperature unless it exceeds the rating. A motor with a built-in thermoguard or one properly fused will be adequately protected.
MOTOR TEST CHARTS
MOTOR RUNS - BUT IS NOISY
Replace End Bell if Bearing Worn
Check Nylon Spacers for End P lay
Add or Replace as. Necessary___
Wrong Voltage or Frequency___
Rewire to Motor
Check Rating on Motor Nameplate
Wrong Voltage to Motor
If Inoperative-Replace Motor Terminal Board
Check Switch Weight s and Spring
If Broken or Distorted Replace Switch
Check Mech. & Electrical Operation
If Inoperative - Replace Motor Terminal Board
Flow charts for troubleshooting
MOTOR END BELL
1. Remove any burrs from pulley shaft.
2. Mark end bells and motor frame on both ends of motor for proper alignment.
3. Remove the four thru bolts.
4. Bump shaft end of motor lightly against a
wooden or padded surface to loosen end bell. Remove end bell.
5. Tap end of rotor lightly and remove other end bell and rotor. Care should be taken to see that the nylon washers at both ends of the shaft remain in position. If washers are worn, replace as needed.
6. If both end bells are replaced or motor was
not marked for assembly of the end bells,
alignment of the bearings must be so oil slots in inside surface of end bell bearings are in opposite alignment. (With the terminal board end bell at three (3) o'clock, the drive end bell notch must be at nine (9) o'clock. See Fig. 11.
NOTE: There is an oil slinger washer in the drive end bell which should be centered over the bearing before assembling to rotor.
NOTE: Some motors have spring washers on rotor shaft. Note 'position when motor is disassembled so proper replacement can be made.
MOTOR STARTING SWITCHES Switch Mounted On Motor Frame
Remove any burrs from pulley shaft.
Mark the motor end bells and motor frame on both ends of motor for proper assembly alignment.
Remove the four thru bolts.
Bump shaft end of motor lightly against a wooden or padded surface to loosen end bell. Remove end bell.
Tap end of rotor lightly and remove other end bell and rotor.
Rest the motor frame on end with terminal board up.
Remove the two terminal board mounting screws.
Remove flag connectors from terminals of old switch and install on new switch in same manner and location.
Lay a straight edge across the motor frame and with a scale, measure down from the straight edge to the spring tip. This dimension must be between and 35/64". To
INDICATES SIDE OPPOSITE LOCATION OF BEARING "WINDOW". PULL OF BELT MUST BE AWAY FROM BEARING WINDOW OR TOWARD INDENT.
obtain proper tip height, bend stop up or down, whichever is required. See Fig. 12.
10. Use a feeler gage to measure the clearance between the starting contacts. If not within the limits of .025" to .040", bend the stationary contact accordingly.
11. If the motor is equipped with auxiliary con-
tacts, measure for adjustment in the same manner but use tip dimensions .450/.475 (Approx. 29/64" - 31/64") and .025/.040 (Approx. 1/32" - 3/64") for the contact clearance.
12. Reassemble the motor. Make sure there is one 1/32" (.031) washer on each end of the rotor shaft.
PLAM washer motor with terminal board mounted on motor frame
STATIONARY CONTACT ARM
CONTACT CLEARANCE .025 to .040
PLAM Dryer motor Note-Auxiliary contacts carry heater load
STATIONARY CONTACT ARM
HEATER LOAD CONTACT
TERMINAL BOARD ASSEMBLY
PLAM Drycleaner motor Note - Auxiliary contacts carry heater load
SWITCH AND TERMINAL BOARD Mounted On Front End Bell
The motor starting switch with auxiliary starting contacts on later type motors is mounted on the front end bell. See Fig. 15. Disassembly
of the motor is performed in the same manner as previously described. No adjustment of this starting switch should be necessary. If it has become bent or otherwise distorted, it must be replaced. Twenty thousandths inch clearance should be checked between contacts before end bell is replaced.
1. Remove any burrs from pulley shaft.
2. Mark the motor end bells and motor frame on both ends of motor for proper assembly alignment.
3. Remove the four thru bolts.
4. Bump shaft end of motor lightly against a
wooden or padded surface to loosen end bell. Remove end bell.
5. Tap end of rotor lightly and remove other end bell and rotor.
6. Remove nylon spacer washers from each end of shaft and examine, replace if worn.
7. Reassemble motor and check end play. This
Fig. 15 should be from .005 to .032.
Q-81863 MOTOR (style number stamped on motor nameplate)
Disassembly of this motor is somewhat different
from the rest of the motors covered in this manual
therefore it is being covered separately here.
DISASSEMBLY OF Q-81863 MOTOR
1. Mark the end bells for easier replacement.
2. Remove the four through bolts.
3. Remove the bearing dust cap with an awl or small screwdriver by prying from place. This cap may be distorted by removal so a new one should be on hand, for replacement.
4. Remove the snap ring from the rotor shaft with a pair of truarc, or similar pliers.
5. Remove the nylon washers.
6. Pull the end bell far enough away from the stator to disconnect the motor lead wires.
7. Remove the end bell.
8. Remove the rotor from the stator by pulling it out the side opposite from the stator lead wires.
9. Remove the two screws that mount the capacitor cover and lift cover from stator.
10. Remove the capacitor from the cover by prying from place.
11. Remove the leads from the capacitor by unsoldering from the capacitor.
12. Replace the motor parts in the reverse order. Be sure to place the nylon washers in their proper place with two inside and two outside the end bell. Maximum end play is .010 on this motor.
REPLACING THERMOGUARD® MOTOR EQUIPMENT MOTORS
* Power Line Appliance Motors
This replacement procedure should be performed in the shop
1. Mark the motor end bells to facilitate proper alignment of the parts when they are replaced on the stator. Remove the thru bolts.
2. Rap the rotor shaft ends sharply with a lead or rawhide mallet to loosen the end bells from the stator. If neither mallet i^ available bump the rotor shaft end against the wooden or padded bench.
3. Remove the end bells and rotor and set them aside.
4. Place the stator in an oven with regulated temperature of from 150° to 170°F. and allow the stator to stabilize at that temperature to soften the varnish around the Thermoguard to be removed. This will take about twenty minutes or more.
CAUTION: DO NOT HEAT ABOVE 300°F.
5. With the varnish softened, remove the tie or the Micarta wedge from the Thermoguard and carefully pry the Thermoguard from the windings. Fig. 17.
6. Cut the lead Close to the Thermoguard to leave sufficient lead length to install the new Thermoguard, motor protector.
7. Splice the cut lead to the new Thermoguard lead. The orange Thermoguard lead should go to the motor winding.
PROTECTOR IN "PLAM"* LAUNDRY
8. Solder or weld the splice and cover it with at least three layers of tape such as Mylar or Permacel. Fig. 18.
CAUTION: Do not use plastic electrician's tape since it may melt at stator operating temperatures.
9. Place the flat side (not stepped side) of the new Thermoguard in a puddle of liquid varnish in the same spot from which the inoperative Thermoguard was removed.
10. Tie the Thermoguard to the winding with cord and brush-coat the entire repair with varnish. Fig. 19. Use Westinghouse #M-6372-2 varnish, available in 1 oz. bottles, style Q-115458. The stator does not need to be baked. The varnish will dry in fifteen or twenty minutes.
11. Reassemble the motor and make any contact adjustments as outlined.
NOTE: On Thermoguards not equipped with a spade connector for the terminal board connection, a flag connector will have to be soldered in place.
REPLACING CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH IN "PLAM"* LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT MOTORS
* Power Line Appliance Motors
1. Scribe-mark both end-bells with respect to their position on the stator housing. This is to assure proper replacement.
2. Remove the four nuts and through bolts that mount the end bells to the housing.
3. Lightly bump the rotor shaft (on the terminal board end of the motor) with a lead or brass mallet, or bump the shaft against a wooden surface to jar opposite end bell from motor.
This replacement procedure must be performed in the shop using -
ROBINAIR TOOL KIT #14148
4. Pull rotor and end-bell off as an assembly.
5. Remove the end-bell from the rotor and set aside. Also, remove from the shaft, the nylon end-play spacers from each side of rotor so they will be available for replacement.
6. Remove the molded collar from centrifugal switch by twisting it clockwise.
7. Hold rotor in a vise or other suitable fixture, but tighten only enough to hold, not distort.
8. Install puller tool over centrifugal switch end of shaft and slide it down over the sleeve.
NOTE: Be sure puller screw is backed out sufficiently so puller tube will extend in beyond sleeve.
distort the mechanism so no attempt should be made to reuse it.
13. Place the new centrifugal mechanism and sleeve on the rotor shaft.
NOTE: The centrifugal mechanism unit must be placed so the weights will align in the openings that have been provided on the rotor by eliminating fins-weights face toward rotor.
9. Slide C-shaped washer in puller slot so it will engage the sleeve when the puller screw is tightened.
10. Turn puller screw clockwise with a %" Allen Wrench while holding the puller with a 3/4" end wrench on the "Flats." This will pull the sleeve off of the rotor shaft.
11. To remove the centrifugal switch, insert the U-shaped rod tool assembly (with alignment piece) through two of the round openings in the rotor opposite to the end holding the centrifugal mechanism. Choose two openings that will allow tool to bottom against the centrifugal plate without striking the weights.
12. Strike the tool sharply with a hammer to remove the centrifugal mechanism. This will
14. Force the new mechanism and sleeve to proper dimensional location on shaft by using the proper installation tool* and an arbor press. A hammer can be used in place of an arbor press if extreme care is exercised. However, hammering is not recommended.
* Consult chart for proper tool to use.
NOTE - 1: The molded collar should be on the mechanism when it is pressed into place since
the installation tool has been designed for installation of the sleeve and centrifugal switch mechanism with the molded collar in place.
NOTE - 2: Be sure rotor is properly supported to avoid bending the fins and to be sure the sleeve and switch are pressed on to the shaft to the proper dimension. Support should be on the bottom end of the shaft rather than against the aluminum fins.
TYPICAL MOTOR CONSTRUCTION
TYPICAL MOTOR CONSTRUCTION
CENTRIFUGAL SWITCHES, TOOLS AND THERMOGUARD® MOTOR PROTECTOR CHART WESTINGHOUSE POWER LINE APPLIANCE MOTORS
MOTOR ROTARY SWITCH CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH PULLER CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH INSTALLATION TOOL SPACER PULLER THERMOGUARD PRODUCT
*Replacement Tool not yet available.
Motor internal Wiring Diagrams for Laundry Equipment
Q-81803 or Q-81804 appears on motor nameplate
appears on motor nameplate
Q-81813 or Q-137541 or Q-81815 or Q-137542
appears on motor nameplate
appears on motor nameplate
Q-81811 or Q-81814 appears on motor nameplate
appears on nameplate
Motor Internal Wiring Diagrams for Laundry Equipment
AUTOMATIC WASHER MOTORS
Internal wiring for Q-81821 & Q-81827 - Styles appear on motor nameplates
Internal wiring for Q-81822, Q-81823, Q-81829 & Q-81859 motors -
Styles appear on motor nameplates
Internal wiring for Q-81824 motor -Style appears on motor nameplate
Internal wiring for - Q-81854 motor -Style appears on motor nameplate
Internal wiring for Q-81855 & Q-81891 Styles appear on motor nameplates
Internal wiring for Q-81856 motor -Style appears on motor nameplate
EXTERNAL WRING OF MOTOR CONNECTOR
TAN TR. fol
Internal wiring for Q-121801 motor Style appears on motor nameplate * (Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
Internal wiring for Q-121802 motor Style appears on motor nameplate * (Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
Internal Wiring for Q-81871 Motor
Style Number appears on motor nameplate
(Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
Internal Wiring for Q-81872 Motor Style Number appears on motor nameplate (Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
â– polarizing rib
motor yellow PIU9 viewed from rear or wire lead end of cap.
Plug viewed from rear or wire If ad end of cap.
Internal Wiring for Q-81881 Motor Style Number appears on motor nameplate (Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
Internal Wiring for Q-81883 Motor Style Number appears on motor nameplate (Note wiring for motor-harness plug)
EXTERNAL WRING Of MOTOR CONNECTOR
AUTOMATIC WASHER MOTOR INTERNAL WIRING DRYCLEANER DRIVE MOTOR INTERNAL WIRING
Internal Wiring for Q-81863 Motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate
Internal Wiring for Q-81832 Motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate
Internal Wiring for Q-92114 Motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate
Internal Wiring for Q-92113 Motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate
Internal Wiring for Q-92112 Motor
Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate.
Internal Wiring for Q-121803 motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate.
Internal Wiring for Q-92111 Motor
Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate.
Internal Wiring for Q-121821 Motor Style Numbers appear on motor nameplate
LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT MOTOR APPLICATION CHARTS
It is more economical to repair motors rather than replace them. To order motor repair parts see original motor name plate for motor style number then refer to Renewal Parts Data No. 289-512 for parts data.
DRYER MODEL MOTOR STYLE STYLE
D-l, D-3, D-3A
DH-3, DH-3B, DH-3K
DH-3L, D-127, D-127B
DH-5, DH-6, DH-7
DS-8SP, D-8M, D-9, D-100,,D-100M,
D-l 10, D-l 12, D-l 14, D-102, D-104
D-l 13, D-114K, D-l 15
D-122, D-124, D-122W, ALDRY 10E, 10ET, 10G, 10GT
DAA30SW1, DBA30SW1, D-120M
DGA30SW1, ALD-1, 2; 3, 4
DAB-30, DBB-30, DCB-30, DEB-30, DGB-30, DKB-30,
DSC-25, D-125M, D-127M, DH-5M, DH-6M, DH-7M
DAC-30, DBC-30, DEC-30, DFC-30, DKC-30, DLC-30,
DTC-30, DGC-30, DJC-30, DCC-30, DBD-30, DCD-30,
DTF-100-1, DTF-200-1, 400-1, 550-1, 570-1,
DTF-578-1, 600-1, 670-1, 678-1, 700-1, 800-1,
DGF-100-1, 400-1, 570-1, 571-1, DTU-100-1, 800-1,
DGU-578-1, 600-1, 601-1, DGU-100-1, DGU-800-1
12E27S, 12ET27, 12G27S, 12GT27
DTF-100-2, 200-2, 400-2, 570-2, 600-2, 610-1,
DTF-578-2, 590-1, 620-1, 630-1, 670-2, 678-2,
DTF-680-1, 700-2, 750-1, 800-2, DTU-100-2. 800-2
DGF-80-1, 100-2, 400-2, 570-2, 571-2, 578-2, 701-1,
DGF-750-1, 630-1, 680-1, 590-1, 601-2, 800-2,
DGU-100-1, 100-2, 800-2
DTF-100-3, 680-2, DTU-100-3, DGU-100-3, DGF-100-3
DEH-250-1, 350-1, 450-1, 650-1, DEH-850-1
DGH-250-1, 350-1, 450-1, 650-1, DGH-850-1
DEH-10C-1, 10S-1, 10U-1, 505- 1, 515-1, 525-1. 550-1,
DGH-10C-1, 10S-1, 10U-1, 505-1, 515-1, 525-1, 550-1,
DEH-250 2, 350-2, 450-2, 650-2, 850-2,
DGH-250-2, 350-2, 450-2, 650-2, 850-2
DEH-505-2, 515-2, 525-2, 550-2
DGH-505-2, 515-2, 525-2, 550-2
* For 50 cycle application order Q-81815
WASHERS AND DRYCLEANERS
DOMESTIC WASHER MODEL PRODUCTION MOTOR STYLE REPLACEMENT MOTOR STYLES KIT STYLE TO BE ADDED
B-3 1215105 or 1177096 955036 Q-4667
Bl-3 1465034 955036 Q-4667
C-3, C1-3, CM-3, CM-4, CM1-4, L-4, LB-6, LB6M, L-8 1465028 955036
LC-8, LC-8M, L-8M, L-9, L-100, L-102 1467463 955036
LS-7, LS-8 1466644 1586204 Q-4667
LS-8SP, L-100M, L-102K, L-104, L-110, L-112 1468083 or 1468984 1586204
L-113, L-114, L-l 14C, L-115 1468083 or 1468984 1586204
L-IOOO, L-IOOOM, LAA-3 1825456 or Q-81822, Q-81859 1586223
L-120, L-120M, L-122, L-122W, L-124, L-126, L-128 1825358 or Q-81821 1586230
LBA-30SW1, LBA30SW2, LGA-30SW1, LAS-30SW1 1825358 or Q-81821 1586230
LBB-30SW1, LCB-30SW1, LGB-30SW1 1825358 or Q-81821 1586230
LAB-30SW2, LBB-30SW2, LCB-30SW2, LGB-30SW2 Q-81827 1586230
LEB-30SW1, LEB-30SW2, LKB-30SW1, LKB-30SW2 Q-81827 1586230
LAC, LCC, LGC, LKC, LJC, LLC, LFC, LED Q-81827 1586230
LBD, LCD, LGC, LKD Q-81855 1586230
LTF-lOO, 200, 400, 570, 578, 590, 600, Q-81891 Q-81891
670, 678, 700, 800 Q-81891 Q-81891
LTF.100-3, 200-3, 400-3, 570-3, 590-3, LTH-100, Q-121821 Q121821
600-3, 670-3, 678-3, 700-3, 800-3 450,550 Q-121821 Q-121821
H-l, H-IB, H-1P, H-2K 1467476 1586206
H-2, H-2B, H-2P, LH-3, LH-3B 1468058 1586207
LH-3K, LH-3BK, LH-4, LSC-25 1467476 or 1468983 1586206
LH-4B, LH-5, 6, 7, LVD-500, LVD-600 1467476 or 1468983 1586206
L-125, L-125K, L-127, L-127K 1468983 or Q-81824 1586206
WD-1, WD-2, WD-3, WD-3V, WD-5 1467509 1586233
CAB-32XW1, CAB-32CW1, CBB-32XW1 Q-81831 1586233
LUC-27, LUC-27-1 Q-92111 Q-92111
LTC-27-1 Q-921 12 Q-92112
LTC-27-2 Q-92114 Q-92114
LAF-200, 400, 570, 590, 600, 610, 620, 630, 640, 680 Q-121801 Q-121801
LAH-850, 650, 605, 615, 505, 515, 525, 550, 454, 450 Q-121801 Q-121801
LAF-670, 700, 750, 780, LAH-350, 250 Q-121802 Q-121802
COMMERCIAL WASHER AND DRYCLEANER MODEL
RL-l, RL-1A, RL-3, RC-3, RC-1A, RC-4, RCM-4 1465028, 1467463 or 1825044 955036
RC-5, RCM-5 1825701 1586231 Q-48048
RC-5, RCM-5, RC-6-, RCM-6, RC-7, RCM-7 Q-81823, Q-81829, Q-81856 1586231
RC-8, RCM-8, RA-8, RAM-8 Q-81823, Q-81829, Q-81856 1586231
ACM-27 Q-92111 Q-9211 1
ACM-27A Q-92113 Q-92113
ACM-1, BAR-115, BAU-115, BAM-115 Q-121803 Q-121803
LD-20, LDM-20, LDM-20A Q-81871 Q-120573
LD-20-3, LDM-20-3, LDM-20-3A Q-81872 Q-120574
LDM-16 Q-81863 Q-81863
LD-20, LDM-20 Series Pump Motor Q-81881 Q-120572
LD-20A, LDM-20A Series Pump Motor Q-81883 Q-81883
DC-20, DC-20A, DC-20B,
DCF-10, DCF-11, DCF-11 A Q-81832 1586232